Trip Report: Grand Tour of Asia (16 Countries, 430 Species), September 1996 - May 1997

Jim Turner and Kate Trainer, 234 Fairlane Drive, Traverse City, MI 49684 USA;

This report describes the travel and logistic part of the trip, which can be supplemented by the separate annotated species lists for the individual countries (available from the authors; some are on-line here - follow the links), or the more concise species list for the trip as a whole (included).

It should be emphasized that the birding was at all times casual. The objective was not to run up high species counts, but to enjoy fairly relaxed world travel, gain a passing familiarity with the avifauna of the region, and to feel the exhilaration of sheer discovery -- finding birding 'hotspots' while the professionally guided tour groups are elsewhere. Above all, the objective was to do it on the cheap. No tour guides, no taxis, no hired cars, no excess baggage of field guides. No effort was made to reach remote habitats or to seek out rare birds. The total cost came to $3,800 for two round-the-world air tickets (we know now it can be done cheaper) and $5,200 for everything else, which comes to $9,000 for eight months. That's $550 per person per month, including air fare. Food and lodgings were Spartan, which requires a certain philosophical approach. For $9,000, we could have bought a package three-week tour of an exotic birding locale and maybe even seen 430 species. This account describes a different slant on birding, and the two should not be confused.

South Korea

The first day started when our friend picked us up before dawn in Madison, Florida to drive us to Tallahassee airport, and 26 hours later we tucked ourselves in for a good night's sleep in a cheap hotel just off the main drag in downtown Seoul, South Korea. Seoul struck us as a remarkably safe-looking city, and we felt perfectly comfortable as an English-speaking acquaintance led us through the back streets searching for the Lonely-Planet-recommended hotel. It was the first time either of us had been in Asia, and we found Seoul to be a refreshingly peaceful and orderly city, considering it is the world's fifth largest.

The next morning, two things became clear. First, the city is not a place to bird, and second, South Korea is not a place for budget travellers. Prices are not as high as Japan, but much higher than the travellers meccas in southeast Asia. Food is especially dear, in restaurants or supermarkets. So we quickly headed for the countryside, with Sorak-san National Park our destination.

Our first real birding was on the morning of September 17, arising on a quiet side street in the little town of Sorak-san, adjoining the national park. Wires and antennas were covered with various tits and colorful Daurian redstarts, and we were burning with desire to plunge headlong into these mysterious unfamiliar Old-World bird families. That was soon blunted with our arrival at the Park itself, where there were nearly 100 busses extruding thousands of uniformed school children, being marshalled into groups by bullhorn-wielding wardens. Vacationing is like this in an affluent country the size of Indiana with no crossable land borders and 50-million inhabitants. We immediately left the parking lot, and walked the three miles back to the town, where we could consult maps and look for fresh birding ideas. That was the day the North Korean submarine went aground and spies headed for the hills. Which hills? Why, the hills of Sorak-san National Park, of course -- although we didn't know about that until several days later. News is hard to get when you don't know the language.

Next came Hupo, and we fell in love with the place. The little fishing village had a bus station, a hotel or two, a deserted beach, and a few rice paddies backed up by gentle wooded hills. None of the several thousand inhabitants spoke a word of English, but they were all hospitable, and the birding restored our faith. We had zero preparation for birding Korea -- solicitations on the Internet had failed to come up with a single contact who could tell us much about birding there, and we didn't even have a field guide. To keep weight down, King and Woodcock's 'Southeast Asia' would have to do. We did, finally, find a very inexpensive little Korean book of bird photos, which identified every single bird we saw that was not in King/Woodcock.

After Hupo, came optimism, and went on to equally fruitful birding in Kyong-ju. That, too, is a major tourist attraction, featuring historic site of Pulguk-sa. Kyong-ju is quite a large city, and the main part of town lies on a river bank. Remarkably, nothing lies on the opposite bank, and the birding is good and easy, right across the main bridge. At Pulguk-sa, the parking lot was much like the one at Sorak-san, but the tourist attraction lies inside the walls, and the birding is in the quiet forest lands just outside the walls. Again, good, easy birding.

South Korea took ten days, and a huge chunk of our budget, but in return, it yielded 50 species to us green-horn novices who spent days sorting out things like Eurasian jays. We were reinventing the wheel, and loving it, and heading for Taiwan.

Additional Korea information.


We arrived there in a typhoon. Didn't understand the TV news. Taipei is the opposite of the planned and well-ordered Seoul. It is dirt and chaos, but just as expensive as plan and order. Food is better in Taiwan (but still mostly tofu), but everything is still just as expensive. In Taipei we sat in the pouring rain for two days, thought it was letting up, and went to Wulai, the crown jewel of Taipei-area birding. Our only luck there was the four teenagers collecting plant specimens for a children's workshop they do, and they let us have their umbrellas and rain-coats. It was our first of many wonderful impressions of the Chinese people: What do kids do on rainy weekends? They go out and get drenched, to help younger kids better themselves, and in the process, they guide dumb Americans on a fruitless bird walk, with never a gloomy moment. To the end of China, we would be continually astonished at the patient generosity of these good-natured people.

On September 30, the rain stopped and we headed down the west coast to the Central Cross-island Highway. Taiwan is even more densely populated than South Korea, but the vast mountainous interior is rugged and remote, transected only by a couple of spectacular roads. Our stops crossing the island were Lishan and Tienhsiang, which have lodgings. Birding is disappointing at both places, although either could be a starting point for more ambitious ventures into the mountains which I think deserve more attention from world birders. Taiwan has 14 endemic species, which are thankfully described and illustrated in a brochure distributed free at the tourist information booth at Taipei airport. Half the endemics are fairly common and easy to see.

From Tienhsiang, Sister Andre from Louisiana offered us a lift in her car down to Taitung. As she made a few parish stops along the way, we had an occasional half-hour to bird the countryside on the old coastal road from Hualien to Taitung. Taitung then proved to be one of those unusual cities that has quite good urban birding. Commonplace birds, of course, but new to us. A day trip to the nearby resort town of Chihpen also yielded some new birds, but was unspectacular.

The train trip back up to Taipei was one of those exasperating experiences in which birds were everywhere, but we were held prisoner by the train, and could only watch them tantalizingly flit by. Coincidentally, the Taiwan visit was the same number of days as Korea, we spent the same amount of money (almost to the dollar), and saw an almost equal 48 species. Our day-to-day expenses in each country came to $50 a day.

Hong Kong

Hong Kong would also have been a budget-breaking visit, if not for our our old acquaintance who offered to let us sleep on the floor in his tiny flat in Junk Bay. More of a social visit than a birding experience, but we were rewarded with a fascinating look at what life is like in a Hong Kong working-class suburb. Rushing about arranging China and Vietnam visas and tracking down travel lore took up a lot of our time, as well, and we only had one day of real birding. We went to Tai Po Kau, and there we met Samson So, a local birder who was kind enough to accompany us for the rest of the day and show us sites that would have otherwise remained unguessed. Mai Po did not make it into our itinerary, due partly to the necessity to make advance arrangements to go there. And, once we had made commitments to dated visas for China and Vietnam, we no longer had the luxury of hanging around. We also went to Macao and included a morning of diligent birding on Coloane Island, but saw little. Our species list for Hong Kong/Macao includes 36 birds. Not impressive, but it includes most of the species I have seen on other people's lists, except those of Mai Po.


Ahhh, China!! What can I say in a million words or less about China? China (along with a total solar eclipse) is on my very short list of the most amazing and incredible and indescribable and unexpected experiences in my life. GO TO CHINA! Find the smallest towns you can get to and sleep at (there aren't many) and go out and bird. An easy place is Yangshuo, a couple of days from Hong Kong, in eastern Guangxi province. Its a popular hangout for international back-packers, but still retains a fairly Chinese flavor, and its very small. Good birding is an easy walk into the countryside, and whatever you may have heard about China, there are still birds in the countryside. Outside the cities,its surprising how far away those billion Chinese seem to be, and how quickly you have left them behind. The people you do meet will be perfectly nonchalant. They will greet you as they would nod to a neighbor they see every day, and exhibit no suspicion as to why you are walking through their paddyfield. As everywhere, learn how to say "I'm looking at birds" in the local language.

Another day's travel, and we were in Longshen, near the border with Guizhou province, with Common kingfishers and Plumbeous redstarts working the river just below our hotel balcony. The road into Longshen came down out of a mountain forest, so the next morning we caught a bus about ten miles back up that road and just got off. The birding was equal to what one would expect walking along a little-used road in the mountains of Virginia or Missouri, and the surroundings not dissimilar. After four hard days on the road in this little-travelled part of China, we arrived in our only other birding spot, Anshun, a fairly large town in Guizhou province. Our hotel was at the edge of town where the city dropped off quickly into agricultural land, which afforded some nice birding. There is also a lake on the edge of the town, with still different birds in that habitat. We had also hoped to bird around Xingyi, in southwest Guizhou, but four days of steady rain there prevented both birding and departure over the muddy roads, so our time was spent eating spectacular Chinese food to the point of extravagance. Once the roads opened, it was off to Nanning and on November 7, the train to Vietnam.

Additional China information.


Only rarely do stragglers of any nationality pass through the road border from Pingxiao to Lang Son. I think we were the only ones that day. Vietnam immigration was closed for lunch when we arrived, so we ate at a nearby shop. The hilly country around the border post was alive with birdsong, and we were enthusiastic about the prospects. Little did we know that in a few minutes we would leave behind what would prove to be the most promising birding we found anywhere in Vietnam. After clearing immigration, we had to wait until 4 PM in the border town of Lang Son for the evening train to Hanoi. Little did we know that Lang Son would be the nicest town we would find.

Hanoi is a genuinely beautiful city in a world that is becoming more architecturally grotesque by the minute. There is French bread, pate', cheese, and cafe-au-lait. The only way out of town is by booking a 50 dollar a day tour to a place where there might not be birds and certainly no opportunity to view them. Everyone told us not to try to go independently to anyplace -- a tour would be cheaper and less stressful in the long run. They were right, but we tried anyway. We tried to go to Tam Dao, an old French hill station on the itinerary of the prestigious bird tours. With absolute assurances from everyone in Hanoi that there was a bus to Tam Dao, we set out. The bus put us off at a place where the sign said "Tam Dao -- 10 km", and two men with motorcycles offered to take us there for twenty dollars each. We started walking back toward Hanoi, and arrived there by virtue of the fact that almost everyone in Vietnam is very nice, although people who prey on travellers may not be. And a few other people are not, either, but that's a non-bird-related story.


We took an overnight train from Hanoi to Hue, which would give access to the only land border point for crossing into Laos. In Hue it was raining, and it had been raining for a month. We met other travellers a month later who said it was still raining in Hue. No birding in Hue. No going anywhere from Hue, except by Tour-bus. The only way to the Laos border was on a tour-bus visiting the nearby Demilitarized Zone, and sure enough, a motorcycle waiting to taxi us to the actual border. So now it is November 20, and we arrive at the Laos border post with a five-day transit visa. That turned out to be less than enough -- and more than enough. Less than enough because Laos is such a charming and relaxing country, of genuinely pleasant people who have seen so few tourists, the children don't even know how to say 'hello' in English. More than enough because collecting birds for the cage and pot is the national cottage industry in Laos, and few birds have survived the carpet-bombing of the 70's and the collecting since. Most of our time was in the southern town of Savannakhet, a timeless place that defies description, and walks out of town might yield about one bird-song per mile. We saw 13 species.


As we entered Thailand, 25 days had passed in the month of November, and not one of them was even a fairly good bird day. The border town is Nongkhai, and it seemed like more species of birds while walking with our bags from the bus station to our hotel, than we saw in all of Laos in five days. Suddenly we're excited again -- for two days we rushed about Nongkhai looking on riverbanks, and back yards, and vacant lots and monasteries for birds. Well, we saw 15 species in Nongkhai, same ones over and over again, but there were dense populations, and we headed up the Mekong river.

Sangkom was the first stop. Lovely bamboo huts along the river for about two dollars a night, and a ten minute walk out of town in any direction. Most walks looked like great habitat, but no birds. But a few hot spots that were quite productive, so still a good bird stop. We soon learned that Thailand would offer very few places like Sangkom. As in most of South America, Thai infrastructure tends to be concentrated at the center of sprawling urbanity. If the bus stops, there is sure to be concrete from horizon to horizon, and birding can only be done at set-aside places.

One such set aside place is Old Sukhotai. Like Pulguk-sa in Korea, it is a walled-in archaeological site, covering a fairly large area, with plenty of grass and water and trees amidst the monuments. The birding is rewarding, and even better outside the walls in the back, where nobody ever goes except the local farmers. The site is easily accessible from New Sukhotai, a modern city with good and convenient lodgings.

Around Chiang Mai, in northwest Thailand, there are two national parks that are well-known among birders, but access is problematic except for those with private cars, or on group tours, so we gave them the miss. Instead, we simply changed busses at Chiang Mai and went on to Pai, an agricultural town part way up the mountains towards Burma. Pai, like Sangkom, has lodgings catering to the backpack set, and is small enough to enable quick walks out of town in any direction. And, the birding is very good, yielding 31 species for a couple of morning walks.

A few hours ride further up toward Burma lies the village of Soppong, which is the access point for the Lod Caves -- and finally we were in a glorious birding hotspot! The caves are central to a small well-laid-out National Park, and we saw 50 species there in three days, many from the deck of our bamboo hut beside the river. Only eight of the Pai and Soppong birds overlapped, so the total species for the two sites was 73.

We resolved to stop again at Soppong on the way back north, for spring birding, and headed for Bangkok and our onward flight to Singapore. We would need to return overland to Bangkok, to fly on to Nepal. Our visa expired on Christmas day, so we rushed on, wanting to be settled in somewhere then, hopefully a place where public observances would cause us the least inconvenience. Long-haul travellers hate holidays.


Singapore can also be a budget-buster, but the enclave of Little India is a life-saver for the backpacker, where there are modestly-priced guest houses and fabulous, cheap Indian food. Settled in, we called Birdchatter Victor Yue, whom we had met on the Internet. He proved to be the kind of host one dreams of, and he set about to ensure that we would see every bird in Singapore. To him, we will be grateful forever. But we had no opportunity to explore Singapore on our own for accidental hot spots, and our bird list in this case is the one that arises with the aid of a knowledgeable patron.


Indonesia provided us with some decision problems. Visas are good for 60 days, travel is slow, and several major holiday encumbrances were approaching, including Chinese New Year, which shuts down virtually every business enterprise in the country for nearly a week, and Ramadan, which culminates with a festive weekend that places a premium on every transportation ticket for a fortnight. We decided to lay low in a hospitable place, and we moved in for the duration with a family on the tiny, depressed island of Singkep, a few minutes south of the Equator off the east coast of Sumatra. It was time for a rest, so we took it easy from New Years Day to February 20, never venturing further from our house than we could walk. Singkep is a tin-mining island, and the mines closed some 15 years ago, leaving a skeleton populace and a crumbling infrastructure, holding the fort in a town called Dabo, about 6 blocks square. A once-attractive public library, surrounded by gardens and a moat, is quietly being reclaimed by the jungle. We counted 43 species around Dabo, all but 5 of them in the 300-yard long lightly-wooded pasture between our house and the hospital. The list must be nearly complete -- we added no new species in our final two weeks.

We left Singkep Island on the first boat after the holiday rush, with barely a week left on our visa for the return to Singapore. We used that week to cross central Sumatra and back, with birding stops in Bukittingi and Maninjau. Bukittingi is an old hill resort town in the highlands, with a spectacular and beautiful canyon right out its back door. The walk down the canyon is easy and delightful. I believe we were there on a slow bird day, but we had to push on to Maninjau which offered much more promise.

And it delivered. In three days, we saw 34 species within about 300 yards of our beautifully situated hillside hotel overlooking the lake and the mountains that surround it. And then back to Singapore to touch base with old friends, buy Kate a replacement pair of binoculars,and the trip north.

Additional Indonesia information.


Malaysia is bird heaven. Mersing, a few hours up the east coast from Singapore, was our first night stopover. Early in the morning, Kate went out to buy fruit, and came running back into the hotel shouting "Hornbills!". There they were, a dozen Southern pied hornbills, hopping about on the roof ledge and antennas of the 3-story building right behind our downtown hotel. The first birds she saw in her new binoculars. And, it kept getting better. Mersin was too urban for birding, so we headed up the coast for a suggested stop in Rompin, requiring a bus change in Endau. Well, Rompin looked generally ugly and uninviting with concrete everywhere, so we decided to backtrack to Endau -- more like our kind of sleepy backwater, and Kate had seen a little hotel sign by the bus stop. Endau, Johore, was the high point of our entire trip. We spent the first week of March being fussed over by the extended family of the Chinese hotel proprietor, all amazed that anyone would ever stop there for the night, much less a week. The first morning we walked through the city dump and along an abandoned road through a mangrove forest to a disused ferry landing, and saw 35 birds by 9 AM. After trying that for a few days, we sought fresher pastures, and walked the other end of town behind the post office along a drainage canal, and saw 34 birds by 10 o'clock. Total Endau list was 73 species, and we couldn't drag ourselves away. BTW, Endau's city dump is ten times worse than the famous birding hotspot at Fraser's Hill.

But leave we did, for the spring crept on in northern climes and we had an agenda. A couple of days in a tiny fishing village of Penyabong, near Endau, had fewer birds, but the seafood was great. And then it was on to Fraser's Hill to compare dumps. Only one bus a day goes by Fraser's Hill, dropping passengers at The Gap, consisting of a wonderful old British colonial hotel and a barricade that controls the alternating one-way traffic eight miles up to Fraser's Hill. There's good birding around The Gap, and its easy to hitch a lift up the hill, because drivers have to wait for the gate to open. So easy, you can stay cheaper at the Gap and commute for Hill birding. The dump really is the best birding at Fraser's Hill, which arguably makes it the best birding in Malaysia, and a case could therefore be made for calling the Dump the best birding in the world. Caught alone there in the rain (a daily occurrence), we built a shelter out of a door, two oil drums, and some plastic sheeting. Our Canadian acquaintance, Halsey Bradford, suspected we'd be there, and came to rescue us in his rented car.

We were of two minds about Taman Negara National Park, but we finally decided to go, and regretted it. It is dense jungle birding, which is difficult, few target birds are actually seen. Costs are high for access, and poor budget lodgings, and competitive marketing is aggressive in a park that is now under private ownership. There is no bird information or interpretation on site, and rangers are ornithologically ignorant. Yes, we saw birds there, but no, we did not see more birds there than we saw in the suburban gardens of the town of Kuala Lipis, just outside the northwestern park boundaries. In fact, Kuala Lipis is a nicer, cheaper place than Taman Negara, with more visible birds and easier walks, and it's right there on the main rail line.

Thailand Again, Burma

Already March 25, with a ton of spring birding to do, we crossed into Thailand, and immediately remembered all the things we did not like about that country. And, Peninsular Thailand was worse than the north. Concrete everywhere, traffic horrendous, and the countryside looking like it had been strip-mined. Little places that look on the map like minor provincial towns are burgeoning cities whose bus stations are five miles from the center. Noise that never stops, most of it coming from loud speakers. Target destination: Thale Noi, the famous aquatic bird refuge. Before Thale Noi, absolutely nothing that looks birdable. Thale Noi town sits right on the lakeshore of the refuge. We asked about hiring a boat, but nothing exists without an outboard motor. We asked for a bird list, but none in any language, and there is no information at all in English, nor any staff that speaks it. The town has a festive market at night, with giant loudspeakers blaring. At 6 PM we hitchhiked to the next town. But we saw the Pheasant-tailed jacana. After Thale Noi, absolutely nothing that looks birdable, all the way to Bangkok.

A footnote here on Burma, which is accessible for birding with a one-month visa, but entry is permitted only by flying in and out of Rangoon. By all accounts, it is a wonderful country to visit, but I have heard no birding reports. We entered Burma on a day-pass, which can often be arranged at several border points with Thailand. We crossed as early as possible from Ranong, Thailand, to Victoria Point, at the southern extremity of Burma, but it is quite late in the day before any birding areas could be reached. We hired a taxi to take us out of town and made a couple of quick reconnaissance stops, but saw very few birds, although the opportunity to see the country was more than worth the effort. We would rather have stayed in lovely Burma than go back to Thailand.


By then, we were fed up with Thailand, and decided to go directly to Bangkok and book our flight to Nepal, writing off the planned spring birding in the northwest, and on April 10, we flew to Kathmandu. Since Burma's land borders are all sealed off to any travel, flying is the only way, but cheap fares to Nepal (and everywhere else) can be found in Bangkok. The first thing we did in Kathmandu was look up Rabindra Manandhar, at the Wisdom Bookshop in Chetrapati district. He's one of Nepal's most knowledgeable birders, and although he is a professional guide, he is happy to talk birding sites with anyone who expresses an interest. His advice was invaluable -- the more so because there is not yet a usable field guide to the birds of the Indian subcontinent. Salim Ali's latest edition still covers only 550 species. However, we found that about 95 percent of the species we saw in Nepal and eastern India were covered in King/Woodcock, since there are records of so many of them in the highlands of western Burma. So King/Woodcock is the book, anywhere beyond the Ganges.

Our first Nepal birding was the short bus trip out to Godavari, in the southeast part of the Kathmandu Valley. We did not do the top of Godavari, despite the importance of the highland birding up there, because it is a long and arduous walk or an expensive taxi ride to the top. But a lot of species can be counted on the lower slopes. Birding Godavari's Botanical Gardens should not be missed. There are no lodgings in Godavari, but Mrs. Thapa will find visiting naturalists a room in her Rooftop Restaurant, a mile back toward Kathmandu from the Godavari bus park. Living nearby is her brother, Mahendra Singh Limbu, perhaps Nepal's foremost lepidopterist.

The number of birding options in Nepal is mind-boggling, but transportation within the country is gruelling. We chose Pokhara as our major stop in the west. It's a nice, comfortable town with a good infrastructure for visiting travellers, and excellent birding within walking distance of the town. Pokhara is also far enough up out of the tropical lowlands that April is still somewhat temperate. Again, the calendar cut us short, and we left Nepal to try to bird Assam and Bangladesh before the monsoons, Kossi Tappu would have been a birding stop in eastern Nepal's lowlands, but this late in the year, the wetlands were again quiet, but we saw a few birds there as the bus passed through a part of the refuge.

Additional Nepal information.


Ahhh, India!!! India is notorious for its infuriating red-tape and bureaucracy, but once you have your Indian visa, you'll have been through the worst of it. India: where no language is spoken by more than a quarter of its citizens, and all cars (there are no imports) are 1952 models -- even the '97's.

Crossing from eastern Nepal, the first look at urban India is Siliguri, after a lovely, bucolic half-hour ride through green countryside, naming birds flitting from the roadside. Siliguri's cluster of tourist hotels are across busy main highway from the bus station, but Siliguri also had an interesting message about birding in India. In a two block walk along the side street behind our hotel, I counted 20 species of birds in a half-hour walk. In India, birds are everywhere -- even in the heart of cities.

From Siliguri, upwards, to the Himalayan slopes that we did not really penetrate in Nepal. Sikkim, a generation ago, was a sealed off kingdom of mystery, but now a popular destination for Indian holidays, and the birding is wonderful. The scenery on the drive up to Pelling is breathtaking, and the town is freezing, even on April 25. Birds are abundant everywhere, especially on the walk up to the Pemiyangtse Monastery. Birders and other early risers get great views of Kanchanjunga, the world's third highest mountain. After three days of bone-chilling Sikkim weather, we headed for the lowlands, in a race with the monsoons.

All roads lead from Siliguri, as does the train to Guwahati, capital of mysterious Assam. This is the odd appendage of northeast India, connected precariously to the motherland by a pencil-thin corridor that separates Nepal from Bangladesh, and the Assamese pay an equally tenuous homage to Indian sovereignty. So much so, that the entire region was off-limits to foreigners and Indians alike until 1995, when three states relaxed the restrictions and permitted free access. From our seat on the train into Assam, we identified 31 species -- Is there no bad birding in India?

After an overnight stop in Guwahati, we got to Kaziranga National Park in the nick of time. In anticipation of the monsoons, the park closes for the season on the first of May, officially, but if it hasn't rained yet, park operations continue for a few days. Lucky for us, it hadn't rained yet, and we shared a tour with a German couple, seeing the rhinos and elephants, and a look at the big birds. Park access is expensive, though, and visitors have to remain in the jeep with an armed guard, so passerine birding is just as good on the outside, where we spent the next two days. The highlights included our first look at a genuine monsoon downpour, from the balcony of our luxurious room at the lodge, now at low-season rates. The rain was also our warning to head for Bangladesh, for the downpours would be daily occurrences in a few weeks.

Additional India information.


Going from Assam to Bangladesh is still on the dwindling list of real travel adventures. The Bangladesh High Commission is in Agartala, so for a visa, we needed to travel through the states of Assam, Meghalaya and Tripura. The first two are pretty straightforward, but the opening up of Tripura for travel may have been a bit premature. Owing to native terrorists, traffic moves to Agartala in a daily convoy, which for reasons unknown, goes at night. It was truly spectacular to see the chaos when the two convoys of over a hundred trucks and busses met each other along the way, with the Indian drivers still determined to overtake each other at every opportunity, and to stop in the road for tea. We later learned part of the reason -- an Indian security forces patrol had been ambushed earlier in the day, twenty of them killed, and they were not available for duty that night to keep things orderly. Nevertheless, the rebels missed their opportunity to massacre us all, and we arrived safely in Agartala. That state capital, too, has fine birding right downtown, but our attention was on the Bangladesh border formalities.

Everyone tried to act un-astonished, but it was clear that the visa officer, Indian and Bangladesh immigration, and the railroad ticket master in Bangladesh had seen few if any foreigners, and had very unclear ideas about the protocol to be followed. But their determination to be nonchalant overcame any inclination to be obstructive, so the process was as painless as any other border crossing, although we had to shake a lot of hands and drink a lot of tea. The only transport from the border post to the railway village was bicycle rickshaw, and it was wonderful to pass through the fields many miles from the nearest internal combustion machine, while fence-post birds remained unfazed by our passing. Once in Bangladesh, our three-hour wait for the Dhaka train was the most exciting thing that had happened there since the last derailment. The boldest bystanders offered various personal assistances, or at least expressions of concern for our well-being in the most non-threatening place on earth. When finally the train came, an ad-hoc committee escorted us to our correct seats, and dozens more shook hands with us through the train window to wish us a good journey. The whistle blew and we started out for Dhaka laden with gifts and goodies.

That was our last great adventure. In Dhaka, we met one of the two native Bangladeshi birders, Dr. Ronald Halder, who drove us to Madhapur Preserve a couple of times for the only remaining good birding in the country at that late spring date. We were tired, I was losing weight from amoebas, and we checked into an air-conditioned room with cable TV. With skies darkening from the great cyclone of '97, Ronnie drove us to the airport for our flight to Dubai and on to America, from where we are determined to one day return to India. In Dubai, on May 22, we saw the Indian Silverbill -- bird #430.

Species List

Location code:

T = Thailand                                        12/96
    Nongkhai, Sangkhom, Sukhotai, Pai, Soppong
    (Peninsular) Thale Noi, Koh Chao                 4/97
M = Malaysia                                         3/97
    Endau, Fraser's Hill & Gap, Taman Negara, Kuala Lipis
S = Singapore                                       12/96
    Sungei Buoh, Bukit Timah, Bukit Khalang, Pulau Ubin
I = Sumatra, Indonesia                             1-2/97
    Dabo (Singkep Is.), Bukittingi, Maninjau (Sumatra)
N = Nepal                                            4/97
    Godawari, Pokhara, Koshi Tappu
A = Assam and Sikkim, India                          5/97
    Pelling (Sikkim), Siliguri, Kaziranga N.P. (Assam)
B = Bangladesh                                       5/97
    Madhapur Preserve
K = South Korea                                      9/96
    Hupo, Kyong-ju, Soraksan
W = Taiwan                                          10/96
    Wulai, Lishan, Tienhsiang, Taitung, Chihpen
H = Hong Kong and Macao                             10/96
    Tai Po Kau (H) and Coloane Island (M)
C = China (south-central)                           11/96
    Yangshuo, Longshen (Guangxi), Anshun (Guizhou)
V = Vietnam (Hanoi)                                 11/96
L = Laos (Savannakhet)                              11/96
Y = Burma (Victoria point)                           4/97
E = United Arab Emirates (Dubai)                     5/97

Species number and nomenclature according to King/Woodcock's Birds of Southeast Asia (Number blank if not listed in King/Woodcock)

Absence of "remarks" implies bird seen at several locations or multiple sightings, and is fairly common and/or widespread.

?? = Identification difficulty (In all such cases, the species chosen is the most probable given range, habitat, abundance, etc.)

No.  Name                       Country      Latin name                Remarks
---- ----                       -------      ----------                -------
   2 Little grebe                    A K     Podiceps ruficolis
  11 Spot-bill pelican               A       Pelicanus philippensis    In Kaziranga NP
  15 Great cormorant                    W    Phalacocorax carbo        One, Taitung
  16 Indian shag                     A       P. fuscicolis             In Kaziranga NP
  18 Little cormorant           T    A       P. niger
  19 Oriental darter                 A       Anhinga melanogaster      In Kaziranga NP
  24 Great bill heron                  K     Ardea sumatrana           River, Kyongju
  25 Gray heron                   S  A K     A. cinerea
  26 Purple heron               T SI A       A. purpurea
  27 Little heron               TMS          Butorides striatus
  28 Indian pond-heron              NAB      Ardeola grayii
  29 CHinese pond-heron         TM       H   A. bacchus                Common
  31 Cattle egret               T  INAB W    Bubulcus ibis
  32 Pacific reef-egret         TM     K H   Egretta sacra             All dark phase
  34 Great egret                TMS NA KW    E. alba
  35 Plumed egret                 S          E. intermedia             Pulau Ubin
  36 Little egret               TMS NABKWH V E. garzetta
  37 Black-crown hight-heron          BK     Nyct. nycticorax
  39 Yellow bittern             T  I         Ixobrychus sinensis       One, Dabo & Thale Noi
  41 Cinnamon bittern            M           I. cinnamomeus            One, Endau
  46 Asian openbill                  A       Anastomus oscitans        FC, In Kaziranga NP
  47 White stork                    NA       Cic. ciconia              FC, roadsides
  52 Lesser adjutant                 A       Leptoptilos javanicus     Several, roadsides
  64 Lesser treeduck            T            Dendrocygna javanica      Few, Thale Noi
  68 Common pintail                  A       Anas acuta                In Kaziranga NP
  72 Spot-bill duck                    K     A. poecilorhyncha         Many in lake, Hupo
  74 Gadwall                           K     A. strepera               lake, Hupo
  76 Eurasian widgeon                  K     A. penelope               River, Kyongju
  77 Garganey                          K     A. querquedula            Lake, Hupo
  86 Mandarin duck                     K     Aix galericulata          Lake, Hupo
  95 Osprey                        I         Pandion haliaetus         One, Dabo
  97 Black baza                 T SI         Aviceda leuphotes         Fairly common
 100 Black shoulder kite        T  I A       Elanus caeruleus
 101 Black kite                    INAB  H   Milvus migrans            Common
 102 Brahminy kite              TMSINA       Haliastur indus           Common
 103 White-belly sea-eagle      TMSI  B      Haliaeetus leucogaster
 104 Pallas' fish-eagle              A       H. leucoryphus            One, In Kaziranga NP
 108 Egyptian vulture               NA       Neophron percnepterus
 109 White-rump vulture             NA       Gyps bengalensis
 110 Long-bill vulture              NAB      G. indicus
 --- Indian griffon vulture         N        G. fulvus
 111 Red-head vulture               N        Sarcogyps calvus
 114 Crested serpent-eagle       M    B    V Spilornus cheela
 120 Northern goshawk                  K HC  Accipiter gentilis ??
 121 Japanese sparrowhawk          I         A. gularis  ??            One, Singkep
 123 Northern sparrowhawk           N  K     A. nisus   ??
 124 Crested goshawk                    W    A. trivirgatus  ??
 126 Shikra                     T            A. badius   ??
 129 Gray-face buzzard            S          Butastur indicus
 130 Common buzzard             T            Buteo buteo
 133 Black eagle                    N        Ictinaetus malayensis     One, Godavari
 135 Greater spotted eagle          N        Aquila clanga             One, Pokhara
 144 Blyths hawk-eagle           M           Spizaetus alboniger       Fraser's Hill
 146 White-rump falcon          T            Polihierex insignis       Sangkhom
 147 Collared falconet          T            Microhierex caerulescens  Pai & Soppong
 151 Eurasian kestrel           T   N     C  Falco tinnunculus
 152 Amur falcon                    N        F. amurensis              One, Godavari
 154 Northern hobby                    K     F.subbuteo    ??
 158 Peregrine falcon                     C  F. peregrinus             One, Anshun
 159 Chinese francolin                    C  Francolinus pintadaenus   Bevy, Yangshuo   ??
 --- Hazel grouse                      K     Tetrastes bonasia    ??   Kyongju
 179 Kalij pheasant                 NA       Lophura leucomalana       FC, Kaziranga
 --- Ring-neck pheasant                K     Phasianus colchicus
 186 Red junglefowl                  A       Gallus gallus             In Kaziranga NP
 195(Great argus)                M           Argusianus argus          Heard, T. Negara NP
 215 White-breast waterhen      TMSINA  H    Amaurornis phoenicurus    Common
 217 Common moorhen              M           Gallinula chloropus       One, Endau
 218 Purple swamphen            T            Por. Porphyrio            Thale Noi
 223 Pheasant-tail jacana       T            Hydrophasianus chirurgus  Thale Noi
 224 Bronze-wing jacana         T    A       Metopedius indicus        Common, Thale Noi
 228 Gray-head lapwing          T            Vanellus cinereus         Pai
 229 Red-wattle lapwing          M   A       V. indicus
 232 Lesser golden plover         S          Pluvialis dominica        Sungei Buloh
 234 Little ringed plover       T       W    Charadrius dubius
 242 Whimbrel                     S          Numenius phaeopus         Sungei Buloh
 248 Common redshank              S          Tringa totanus            Sungei Buloh
 249 Marsh sandpiper            T S          T. stagnatilis
 250 Common greenshank            S          T. nebularia              Sungei Buloh
 253 Wood sandpiper                     K    T. glareola  ??           Hupo
 255 Common sandpiper            MS          Actitis hypoleucos
 266 Red knot                           W    Calidris canutus ??       One, river, Taitung
 268 Rufus-neck stint                   W    C. ruficolis   ??         River, Taitung
 281 Pied avocet                       K     Recurvirostra avosetta    10-15, seen from bus
 292 Herring gull                      K     Larus argentatus
 293 Slaty-back gull                   K     L. schistisagus  ??
 298 Whiskered tern             T            Chlidonius hybrida        River, Bangkok
 300 Gull-bill tern                I         Gelochelidon nilotica ??  Common, Lake Maninjau
 302 River tern                      A       Sterna aurantia           Kaziranga
 303 Common tern                       K     S. hirunda
 304 Roseate tern                MS          S. dougalii
 305 Black-nape tern               I         S. sumatrana   ??         Interisland ferry
 318 Yellow-vent pigeon          M           Treron seimundi           Fraser Hill Gap
 321 Thick-bill pigeon          TM           T. curvirostra
 325 Pink-neck pigeon            MSI         T. vernans                Fairly common
 326 Orange-breast pigeon        M           T. bicincta               Kuala Lipis
 330 Green imperial pigeon           A       Ducula aenea              Kaziranga
 332 Mountain imperial pigeon    M           D. badia                  Fraser's Hill
 334 Rock pigeon                TMSINABKWHCV Columba livia             Common urban
 339 Little cuckoo-dove          M           Macropygia ruficeps       Fraser's Hill
 340 Oriental turtle-dove       T     BKW    Streptopelia orientalis
 341 Collared dove                   A       S. decaocto               Siliguri (pos.escape)
 342 Red turtle-dove            T    A       S. tranquebarica
 343 Spotted dove                MSINABH     S. chinensis              Common
 --- Little brown (Palm) dove        A     E S. senegalensis           A-Kaziranga/E-common
 344 Peaceful dove              TMS          Geopelia striata
 345 Green-wing pigeon           M           Chalcophaps indica        Kuala Lipis
 348 Rose-ring parakeet              A     E Psittacula krameri        Common
 349 Red-breast parakeet             A       P. alexandri
 350 Long-tail paraket           MS          P. longicauda
 351 Blossom-head parakeet      T            P. roseata                Soppong
 353 Blue-rump parrot            M           Psittinus cyanurus        Kuala Lipis
 354 Vernal hanging-parrot           A       Loriculus vernalis        In Kaziranga NP
 355 Blue-crown hanging-parrot   M           L. galgulus               T. Negara & K. Lipis
 358 Large hawk-cuckoo          T    A       Cuculus sparverioides
 359 Common hawk-cuckoo               B      C. varius
 361 Hodgson's hawk-cuckoo      T   N        C. fugax
 362 Indian cuckoo                  NAB  H   C. micropterus
 363 Common cuckoo                  NA       C. canorus
 364 Oriental cuckoo                NA       C. saturatus
 366 Banded bay cuckoo           M           Cacomantis sonneratii
 367 Plaintive cuckoo           T  I AB      C. merulinus
 369 Asian emerald cuckoo            A       Chrysococcyx maculatus    One, Pelling
 372 Malayan bronze cuckoo        S          C. malayanus              One, Sungei Buloh
 373 Drongo cuckoo              TMS          Surniculus lugubris
 374 Common koel                  S NAB      Eudynamys scolopacea      FC urban
 375 Black-belly malkoha         M           Phaenicophaeus diardi     Fraser's Hill
 376 Chestnut-belly malkoha      MS          P. sumatranus
 377 Green-bill malkoha         T     B      P. tristis
 378 Raffles malkoha            TM I         P. chlorophaeus
 380 Chestnut-breast malkoha     MS          P. curvirostris
 383 Greater coucal             TM   A       Centropus sinensis        Common
 384 Lesser coucal              TMSI       L C. bengalensis
 390(Mountin scops owl)          M           Otus spilocephalus        Heard, Godavari
 400(Collared owlet)             M   A       Glaucidium brodiei        Heard, Fraser's Hill & Pelling
 402(Asian barred owlet)        T            G. cuculoides             Heard, regular
 404 Spotted owlet                  N        Athene brama              Seen, Pokhara
 416 Malaysian eared nightjar    M I         Eurostopodus temminckii   Seen, Fraser's  Gap
 417(Great eared nightjar)      T            E. macrotis               Heard
 419(Large-tail nightjar)       TM           Caprimulgus macrurus      Heard
 420(Indian nightjar)           T            C. asiaticus              Heard, Pai
 421(Savanna nightjar)                  W    C. affinis                Heard, near Taitung
 423 Edible nest swiftlet        MSI         Collocalla fuciphaga
 424 Black nest swiftlet             A       C. maxima   ??
 426 White-belly swiftlet       TM           C. esculenta
 432 Fork-tail swift            T            Apus pacificus            Abundant, Soppong
 433 House swift                TM INA       A. affinis
 434 Asian palm swift           TM I  B    L Cypsiurus batasiensis     Common
 435 Crested treeswift          T   N        Hemiprocne coronata
 436 Gray-rump treeswift         M           H. longipennis            Fraser's Hill
 443 Red-head trogon             M           Harpactes erythrocephalus Fraser's Hill
 446 Pied kingfisher                N        Ceryle rudis              Bus, Kossi Tappu
 448 Common kingfisher          TMSINA  W C  Alcedo atthis             Regular
 454 Stork-bill kingfisher      TM I A       Pelargopsis capensis
 457 White-throat kingfisher    TMSINAB  H   Halcyon smyrnensis        Common
 458 Black-cap kingfisher       TM I         H. pileata
 459 Collared kingfisher         MS          H. chloris
 462 Blue-tail bee-eater           INA       Merops philippinus        Common at Dabo
 463 Green bee-eater            T    AB      M. orientalis
 464 Blue-throat bee-eater       MS          M. viridis                Fairly common
 466 Blue-bearded bee-eater     T            Nyctyornis athertoni      One, Soppong
 467 Indian roller              T   NAB      Coracias benghalensis
 468 Dollarbird                 TMS          Eurystomus orientalis
 469 Hoopoe                          A     E Upupa epops               A-Kaziranga
 475 Wreathed hornbill           M           Rhyticeros undulatus ??   Taman Negara
 478 Indian pied hornbill       T            Anthracoceros albirostris One, Koh Chao
 479 Southern pied hornbill      M           A. convexus               Fairly common
 483 Fire-tufted barbet          M           Psilopogon pyrolophus     One, Fraser's Hill
 484 Great barbet               T   NA   H   Megalaima virens
 486 Lineated barbet            T   N B      M. Lineata
 487 Green-eared barbet         T            M. faiostricta            Soppong
 488 Gold-whisker barbet         M           M. chrysopogon            Common, Frazers Hill
 492 Black-brow barbet                   W   M. oorti                  Chihpen
 493 Blue-throat barbet             NAB      M. asiatica               Common
 497 Coppersmith barbet         TMSINAB      M. haemacephala           Common
 505 Rufous woodpecker           M    B      Micropternus brachyurus
 506 Laced woodpecker             S          Picus vittatus            One, Pulau Ubin
 513 Crimson-wing woodpecker     M           P. puniceus               Endau
 515 Checker-throat woodpecker   M           P. mentalis               Taman Negara
 516 Banded woodpecker           MS          P. miniaceus
 519 Common goldenback           M   AB      Dinopium javanense
 526 Great slaty woodpecker      M           Mulleripicus pulverulentus Flock, Taman Negara
 527 White belly woodpecker      M           Dryocopus javensis        Pair, Kuala Lipis
 534 Yellow-crown woodpecker        NA       Picoides mahrattanesis
 535 Gray-cap woodpecker        T     B      P. canicapillus
 537 Grey & buff woodpecker      M           Hemicircus concretus      Pair, Kuala Lipis
 541 Orange back woodpecker      M           Chrysocolaptes validus    Endau
 --- Japanese pygmy-woodpecker         K     Dendrocopus kizuki
 --- White-back woodpecker             K     D. leucotis
 544 Black & red broadbill       M           Cymbirhynchus macrorhynchus Taman Negara
 548 Long-tail broadbill         M           Psarisomus dalhousiae     Fraser's Hill
 562 Singing bushlark           T            Mirafra javanica  ??      Sangkhom
 567 Oriental skylark                A       Alauda gulgula    ??
 569 Plain martin                       W    Riparia paludicola        Wulai
 570 Sand martin                           Y R. riparia
 572 Barn swallow               TM INA KW C  Hirunda rustica           Common
 573 Pacific swallow             MSI         H. tahitica               Common
 575 Red rump swallow           T S N        H. daurica
 576 Common house martin        T            Delichon urbica
 579 Bar-wing flycatcher-shrike  M           Hemicus picatus           Endau
 580 Black-wing flyctchr-shrike  M I         H. hirundinaceus
 581 Large wood-shrike                B      Tephrodornis virgatus
 582 Common wood-shrike             N        T. pondicerianus          Godavari
 583 Large cuckoo-shrike            NAB      Coracina novaehollandiae
 588 Black-head cuckoo-shrike         B      C. melanoptera
 589 Pied triller                M           Lalage nigra              Endau
 590 Ashy minivet                M           Pericocrotus divaricatus  FC, Endau
 592 Small minivet              T   N B      P. cinnamomeus
 595 Gray-chin minivet          TM           P. solaris
 597 Long-taill minivet             N        P. ethologus              Godavari
 598 Scarlet minivet                 A   HC  p. flammeus
 599 Green iora                  M           Aegithina viridissima     Endau
 600 Common iora                TMSINAB      A. tiphia
 601 Great iora                  M           A. lafresnayei            Endau
 602 Lesser green leafbird       M           Chloropsis cyanopogon     Taman NEgara
 604 Golden-frnt leafbird       T     B      C. aurifrons
 605 Blue-wing leafbird         TMS          C. cochinchinensis
 606 Orange-belly leafbird          N        C. hardwickii             One female, Pokhara
 608 Collared finchbill                 W C  Spizixos semitorques
 609 Straw-head bulbul           M           Pycnonotus zeylanicus     K.Lipis & T.Negara
 610 Striated bulbul                 A       P. striatus               Pelling
 612 Black-head bulbul          TM           P. atriceps
 613 Black-crest bulbul         TM  N        P. melanicterus
 616 Red-whisker bulbul         T    AB  H V P. jocosus                Common
 618 Light-vent bulbul          T        HC  P. sinensis               Both races common
 619 Red-vent bulbul                NAB    E P. cafer                  Abundant
 620 Sooty-head bulbul          T  I         P. aurigaster
 622 Stripe-throat bulbul        M           P. finlaysoni
 624 Yellow-vent bulbul         TMSI         P. goiavier               Abundant
 625 Olive-wing bulbul           MSI       Y P. plumosus
 626 Streak-eared bulbul        T          L P. blanfordi              Sukhotai
 628 Red-eyed bulbul             M I         P. brunneus
 --- White-cheek bulbul             N      E P. leucogenys             Common
 633 Ochraceous bulbul           M           Criniger ochraceus        FC, Fraser's H. & Gap
 636 Hairy-back bulbul          T            Hysipetes criniger        Koh Chao
 638 Grey-eyed bulbul           T            H. Propinquus             Soppong
 642 Ashy bulbul                T            H. flavala                Sangkhom
 644 Black bulbul               T   NA       H. madagascariensis
 --- Brown-eared bulbul                K     H. amaurotis              Common
 646 Black drongo               T   NAB W  v Dicrurus macrocercus      Abundant
 647 Ashy drongo                T   N        D. leucophaeus
 648 Crow-bill drongo           T            D. annectans              Soppong
 649 Bronzed drongo             TM  N B      D. aeneus
 650 Lesser racket-tail drongo   M           D. remifer                Fraser's Hill
 651 Spangled drongo            T   N B      D.. hottentottus
 652 Greater racket-tail drongo TSM          D. paradiseus             Common
 654 Black-nape oriole          TMSI A       Oriolus chinensis
 656 Black-hood oriole               AB      O. xanthornus
 657 Black & crimson oriole      M           O. cruentus               Fraser's Hill
 --- Golden oriole                  N        O. oriolus                Pokhara
 650 Asian fairy bluebird        M           Irena puella              Taman Negara
 662 Eurasian jay               T      K     Garrulus glandrius
 664 Green magpie                M           Cissa chinensis           Fraser's Hill
 667 Gold-bill magpie               N        Urocissa flavirostris     Pokhara
 668 Black-bill magpie                 K H   Pica pica                 Common
 669 Rufous treepie                 NAB      Dendrocitta vagabunda
 670 Gray treepie                   NA  W    D. formosae               Common
 677 House crow                   S NAB    E Corvus spendens           Common urban
 681 Large-bill crow            TMSINAB WH L C. macrorhynchos          Common
 684 Black-throat tit               NA  W C  Aegithalos concinnus
 --- Varied tit                        K     A. varius                 Fairly common
 --- Long-tailed tit                   K     A. caudatis
 686 Marsh tit                      N  K     Parus palustris
 688 Coal tit                          K     P. ater
 688.Yellow-belly tit                     C  P. venustulus             Longshen
 690 Great tit                      NABK HCV P. major                  Common
 691 Green-back tit                 NA  W    P. monticolus
 692 Yellow-cheek tit               NA   H   P. spilonotus
 693 Sultan tit                 T            Malanochlora sultanea     Soppong
 695 Chestnut-vent nuthatch         NA       Sitta nagaensis
 696 Chestnut-belly nuthatch        N        S. castanea               One, Godavari
 699 Velvet-front nuthatch       M  NAB      S. frontalis
 701 Blue nuthatch               M           S. azurea                 Fraser's Hill
 --- Eurasian nuthatch                 K     S. europaea
 719 Abbott's babbler                A       Trichastoma abbotti
 --- Indian scimitar-babbler        N        Pomatorhinus horsfeldii   Pokhara
 743 Bar-wing wren-babbler           A       Spelaeornis troglodytoides Pelling
 750 Rufous-capped babbler              W    Strachyris ruficeps       Lishan
 751 Golden babbler              M           S. chrysaea               Fraser's Hill
 753 Grey-throat babbler         M           S. negriceps              Fraser's Hill
 760 Striped tit-babbler        TMSI  B      Macronous gularis         Common
 764 Yellow-eyed babbler        T            Chrysomma sinense         Pai
 --- Jungle babbler                  A       Turdoides striatus
 770 Masked laughingthrush               H   Garrulax perspecillatus
 772 White-crest laughingthrush     N        G. leucolophus            Pokhara
 773 Lesser necklaced l'thrush  T            G. monileger  ??          Soppong
 789 Chestnut-cap l'thrush       M           G. mitratus               FC, Fraser's Hill
 792 Hwamei                              H   G. canorus
 --- Steere's liocichla                 W    Liocichla steerii         Common, Lishan
 804 Silver-eared mesia          M           Leiothrix argentauris     Fraser's Hill
 805 Red-bill leiothrix              A       l. lutea                  Pelling
 809 Green shrike-babbler            A       Pteruthius xanthochlorus  Pelling
 817 Blue-wing minla                     H   Minla cyanouroptera       Introduced
 819 Red-tail minla                  A       M. ignotincta             Pelling
 829 Brown-cheek fulvetta       T            Alcippe poioicephala      Soppong
 830 Moutain fulvetta            M           A. peracensis             Fraser's Hill & Gap
 831 Gray-cheek fulvetta                 W   A. morrisonia
 832 Nepal fulvetta                 NA       A. nipalensis
 838 Long-tail sibia             M           Heterophasia picaoides    Abundant, Fraser's H.
 --- Black-cap sibia                NA       H. capestrata
 839 Striated yuhina                      C  Yuhina castaniceps        One, Longshen
 841 Whiskered yuhina                A       Y. flavicolis             Pelling
 843 Stripe-throat yuhina            A       Y. gularis                Pelling
 846 Black-chin yuhina               A       Y. nigrimenta             Pelling
 847 White-belly yuhina            I         Y. zantholeuca            Bukittingi
 --- Taiwan yuhina                      W    Y. brunneiceps
 854 Vinous-throated parrotbill        K     Paradoxornis webbianus    Common
 861 Gray-head parrotbill                  L P. gularis                Savannakhet
 863 Lesser shortwing              I         Brachypteryx leucophrys   Manimjau
 873 Indian blue robin               A       Erithacus brunneus        Pelling
 879 Magpie robin               TM INAB  HC  Copsychus caularis        Abundant
 880 White-rump shama           TM    B      C. malabaricus
 882 Black redstart                 NA       Phoenicurus ochruros
 886 Daurian redstart                  K  C  P. auroreus               Common
 887 Plumbeous redstart             N   W C  Rhyacornis fuliginosus
 889 White-tail robin                A       Cinclidium leucorum       Pelling
 900 Stonechat                  T   N B  H L Saxicola torquata         Fairly common
 902 Pied bushchat              T   NA       S. caprata
 904 Grey bushchat              T            S. ferrea
 905 River chat                     N        Thamnolaea leucocephala   Godavari
 908 Chestnut-belly rock-thrush      A       Monticola rufiventris     Pelling
 909 Blue rock-thrush           T    A  W C  M. solitarius
 911 Blue whistling-thrush          N        Myophonus caeruleus       Pokhara
 --- Taiwan whistling-thrush            W    M. insularis              Tienhsiang
 913 Orange-head thrush          M           Zoothera citrina          Fraser's Hill
 924 Grey-wing blackbird             A       Turdus boulboul           Pelling
 925 Common blackbird               N        T. merula  ??             Godavari
 --- White's ground thrush             K     T. dauma                  One, Hupo
 934 White-spectacle warbler         A       Seicercus affinis         Pelling
 935 Golden-spectacle warbler       N        S. burkii                 Godavari
 936 Grey-hooded warbler            NA       S. xanthoschistos
 942 Rufous-faced warbler               W    Abroscopus albobularis    Lishan
 945 Buff-throat warbler             A       Phylloscopus subaffinis   Pelling
 946 Dusky warbler              T            P. fuscatus
 950 Inornate warbler           T   NAB   Cv P. inornatus              Common
 953 Arctic warbler                    K     P. borealis               Kyongju
 955 Greenish warbler               N        P. trochiloides           FC at Godavari
 959 White-tail leaf-warbler    T            P. davisoni               Soppong
 975 Common tailorbird          TM  NAB  HCV Orthotomus sutorius       Common
 976 Dark-neck tailorbird       TMSI         O. atrogularis
 977 Ashy tailorbird             MSI         O. ruficeps
 979 Mountain tailorbird         M           O. cuculatus              Fraser's Hill
 980 Grey-breast prinia         T     B      Prinia hodgsonii
 --- Graceful warbler                      E Prinia gracilis
 981 Rufescent prinia           TM           P. rufescens
 983 Yellow-belly prinia           I         P. flaviventris           Dabo
 986 Hill prinia                   I         P. atrogularis ??         Maninjau
 --- Bar-wing prinia               I         P. familiaris             Common, Maninjau
 987 Zitting cisticola             I     H   Cisticola juncidis
1009 Asian brown flycatcher      M I         Muscicapa latirostris
1012 Ferruginous flycatcher     TM   A       M. ferruginea
1013 Verditer flycatcher         M  NA       M. thalassina             Fairly common montane
1017 Red-throat flycatcher      TM  N     C  Ficedula parva            Fairly common
1020 Rufous-brow flycatcher      M           F. solitaria              Fraser's Hill
1022 Rufous-chest flycatcher     M           F. dumetoria (Mugimaki??) Endau Mangroves
1023 Slaty-back flycatcher          N        F. hodgsonii              Godavari
1024 Little pied flycatcher      M   A       F. westermanni
1027 Sapphire flycatcher        T            F. sapphira               Soppong
1029 Large niltava               M           Niltava grandis           Fraser's Hill
1032 Rufous-belly nlitava            A       N. sundara                Pelling
1044 Mangrove blue flycatcher    M           Cyornis rufigastra        FC at Endau
1046 Greyhead flycatcher         M  NAB      Culicicapa ceylonensis
1047 Yellow-belly fantail           N        Rhipidura hypoxantha      Gocavari
1048 White-throat fantail        MS NA       R. albicollis
1051 Pied fantail               T S          R. javanica               Common
1052 Black-nape monarch         TM    B      Hypothymus azurea
1056 Asian paradise-flycatcher   M           Terpsiphone paradisi
1061 White wagtail              T      KWHCL Motacilla alba            Common
1062 Grey wagtail               T  I     H   M. cinerea                Common
1063 Yellow wagtail                  A KWHCV M. flava                  Common
1064 Yellow-hooded wagtail           A       M. citreola               Kaziranga
 --- Japanese wagtail                  K     M. grandis                One, Soraksan NP
 --- Large pied wagtail             N        M. maderaspatensis        Pokhara
1066 Olive tree pipit           T   N        Anthus hodgsoni
1067 Richard's pipit            T  I AB  H   A. novaeseelandiae        Fairly common
1069 Red-throated pipit         T         C  A. cervinus
1074 Ashy wood-swallow                B      Artamus fuscus            One, roadside wire
1075 Brown shrike               TM I A  W  V Lanius cristatus          Common
1076 Bull-headed shrike                K     L. bucephalus             Hupo
1077 Tiger shrike                MSI         L. tigrinus
1078 Burmese shrike             T            L. collurioides
1079 Grey-backed shrike         T    A       L. tephronotus
1080 Long-tailed shrike         T   NA   HC  L. schach (+race H)       Common
1082 Philippine glossy starling TMSI         Aplonis panayensis
1084 Chestnut-tail starling         NAB      Sturnus malabaricus       Common
1087 Purple-back starling        MS          S. sturninus
1090 Asian pied starling             AB      S. contra                 Common
1091 Black-collar starling      T        H   S. nigricollis
 --- Rosy pastor                     A       S. roseus
1093 Common myna                TMS NAB   EL Acridotheres tristis      Abundant
1094 Jungle myna                    NAB      A. fuscus
1095 White-vent myna            TM           A. javanicus
1097 Crested myna                 S     WH V A. cristatellus
1099 Hill myna                   MS          Gracula religiosa
1101 Brown-throat sunbird        MSI         Anthreptes malacensis     Common
1103 Ruby-cheek sunbird         TM           A. singalensis
1106 Purple-throat sunbird       M           Nectarina sperata
1107 Copper-throat sunbird       M           N. calcostetha            FC Endau
1108 Olive-back sunbird         TMSI         N. jugularis              Common
1109 Purple sunbird             T   N      E N. asiatica
1110 Gould's sunbird                 A       Aethopyga gouldiae        Pelling
1111 Green-tail sunbird              A       A. nipalensis             Pelling
1112 Fork-tail sunbird                   H   A. christinae
1113 Black-throat sunbird        M           A. saturata               FC, Fraser's Hill
1114 Crimson sunbird             MSINA       A. siparaja               Fairly common
1117 Little spiderhunter         MS          Arachnothera longirostra
1119 Long-bill spiderhunter      M           A. robusta
1121 Yellow-eared spiderhunter`  M           A. chrysogenys
1123 Streaked spiderhunter       M           A, magna                  Common, Frasers Hill
1129 Yellow-vent flowerpecker   TM           Dicaeum chrysorrheum
1131 Orange-belly flowerpecker   MSI         D. melanoxanthum          Common
1133 Plain flowerpecker               B      D. concolor
1134 Scarlet-back flowerpecker  TMSIN      V D. cruentatum             Common
1135 Buff-belly flowerpecker    TM   A       D. ignipectus
1137 Japanese white-eye         T       WHCv Zosterops japonica        Abundant
1138 Oriental white-eye            IN B      Z. palpebrosa
1140 Eurasian tree-sparrow      TMSINABKW Cv Passer montanus           Abundant
1143 House sparrow                  NAB    E P. domesticus             Common urban
1144 Baya weaver                     A       Ploceus philippinus       One, Kaziranga
1148 Pin-tail parrotfinch          I         Erythrura prasina         One, Maninjau
1151 White-rump munia           TM      W    Lonchura striata
1154 Scaly-breast munia         TMSI    WH   L. punctulata             Abundant
1155 Chestnut munia                I         L. malacca
1156 White-head munia              I         L. maja
1159 Yellow-breast greenfinch       N        Carduelis spinoides       Godavari
 --- Oriental greenfinch               K     C. sinica                 Hupo
1184 Yellow-throat bunting             K     Emberiza elegans
 --- Siberian meadow bunting           K     E. cioides                One, Hupo
 --- Less sulphur-crest cockatoo  S      H   ??                        Introduced
 --- Indian silverbill                     E Euodice malabarica

 -x- White-cheek X Red-vent bulbul           Dubai, UAE
 -x- Magpie robin X White-rump shama         Pai, Thailand

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This page served by Urs Geiser;; August 13, 1997; updated December 9,1999