Trip Report: Finland and Northern Norway, May 31 - June 12, 1999

Barry Cooper & Gail Mackiernan, Maryland, USA; gail@mdsg.umd.edu

Overview

This report describes a trip we made to Finland and arctic Norway in June 1999. Our targets were the many species which are more characteristic of regions to the east, which in Europe are easiest to find in Finland, as well as the excellent suite of owls, raptors, grouse, waders and seabirds which frequent the vast forests, wetlands, tundra and fjords of these two beautiful countries. North of Helsinki, the area is covered with extensive birch/pine/spruce taiga forest (most managed for timber production) interpersed with thousands of lakes and bogs. North of Ivalo one reaches tundra, with stunted birch woods in sheltered areas and along streams. This is Lapland, where reindeer outnumber people by a factor of ten. The Varanger Peninsula of Norway was still partially frozen when we arrived in early June, ice floes piled in huge windrows along the Tana River, and the road over the high interior passed through extensive snow fields with still-frozen lakes. We were too early to be plagued by mosquitoes or blackflies, a problem later in the summer. Once north of the arctic circle it was daylight for 24 hours, and even as far south as Helsinki there was only a brief twilight as the sun dipped below the horizon for a few hours.

The weather was suprisingly warm and muggy during our stay around Helsinki with high temperatures in upper 70's to low 80's (°F). It was rather cold and rained continously in Kuusamo. From Ivalo north to Varanger, the weather was generally sunny and pleasant with little wind. Temperatures varied between a high of about 40 and 55°F but at no time were we unduly cold.

We flew to Helsinki from London on SAS, after a brief visit with relatives in England, and rented a car from Budget at the airport. After a few days in Helsinki we flew to Oulu on Finnair, rented a car, drove to Norway, and then flew back to Helsinki from Ivalo, near the Norwegian border. The internal flight was surprisingly inexpensive, and there was no additional charge for the "open-jaw" flight or the car drop-off at Ivalo. We found both Finland and Norway to be very safe modern countries with good highway systems. Around Helsinki, particularly in the rush-hour, there was some heavy traffic and congested highways. Aside from this, the well-maintained roads were very quiet.

The per-day costs of the trip, such as car rental, gasoline, etc. were fairly high. We found that the best deal for accommodation was to rent a small self-contained cottage in a campground (see list below). These typically provided all cooking gear and dishes, bedding except for sheets and were heated. Apart from the relatively low cost, these had the advantage of being in quite birdy locations. While eating out at restaurants is pricy, we found we could cook something quickly and inexpensively in our cottage. The almost 24 hour daylight makes for long days birding and problematic sleeping conditions. In fact, many species (such as game-birds and songbirds) are more active during the "night" and it can pay off to be birding all night, at least on a couple of occasions. For example we slept during the afternoon and then birded constantly from 6.00 p.m. to 6.00 a.m. while at Kuusamo.

Hiring a local guide for some forest species (such as owls) is absolutely necessary. We hired paid guides on two half days and one whole day. In addition, we had made acquaintance with three very good Finnish birders who took us around for another two days. The average cost for paid guides was about $150 per day - rather high for two people. Finally, most Finnish birders maintain constant contact with each other in the field via mobile phones. These can be hired from your car rental company and can be very useful in getting the latest bird info, particularly as most local birders speak some level of English. Of course, this assumes you have developed a list of local contacts. The phone can also be great for changing or confirming reservations, etc. There is also a birding pager service, of course in Finnish, but folks with pagers seemed very willing to share "breaking information" with visitors.

Our paid guides were as follows:

Itinerary

5/31/99

Flew to Helsinki and drove to Espoo Camping Oittaa (which itself has good birding habitat on a lake).

6/1/99

Kirkkonummi Headland, Porkkala Tower and surrounding areas with Annika Forsten. In late afternoon visited Nuuksio National Park NW of Espoo, and in evening a very good scrub/marsh habitat adjacent to the Vermo Racetrack near Helsinki for night singers. Night at Camping Oittaa.

6/2/99

Birded all day until about 10.00 p.m. with Heikki Lokki in forested area near Hattula (about one hour north of Helsinki). Night at Camping Oittaa.

6/3/99

Revisited Porkkala area, Vermo Racetrack and then birded Haltiala, a wooded park south of the airport. In p.m made a unsuccessful try for a Red-footed Falcon NW of Espoo.

6/4/99

Early a.m. flight from Helsinki to Oulu. Morning birding in forested areas near Oulu with Petri and in the afternoon drove to Kuusamo in rain. We were met at the Oivanki Youth Centre by the manager, Tiina Mäkelä. She graciously invited us to her home for coffee and snacks, while we waited for her husband, Jyrki -- a keen birder who was scouting for the next week's Big Bird Race -- to return. In the evening, Jyrki took us out for a few hours to some special local spots. Night spent at the Youth Center.

6/5/99 - 6/6/99

Birded various forests, lakes and meadows around Kuusamo including Valtavarra Ridge, Kuusamo sewage farm, Toranki and Oulanki. Heikki Seppänen was our guide for what turned out to be nearly 24 hours' of birding (we had rain off and on the entire time, which nevertheless did not slow us down very much!).

6/7/99

Despite essentially no sleep, we did some early a.m. birding around Kuusamo searching for certain elusive species, and then drove north to Ivalo stopping en route to bird at various locations close to the road, including Kiilopaa hill to try for Ptarmigan. Naturally it was bright sunlight throughout this travel day! Had reindeer steak for supper at the Hotel Kultahippu, where the local gold-panners trade golddust for booze (Ivalo is a center for gold prospecting, sort of a Finnish Klondike). Overnight at Campground NŠverniemen Lomakylä in Ivalo.

6/8/99

Morning birding with Olli Karhu in forested areas near Ivalo and Ivalo Sewage Works. In afternoon drove north to Vadsø stopping on route to bird at the Tana River, Nesseby and Store Ekkeroy. Overnight at Camping Jacobselv near Vadsø (for the following two nights also). Weather was clear and comfortable throughout our stay in Finnmark.

6/9/99

Stopped at various locations along the Varangerfjord including Nesseby and Vardø. To get to Vardø (an island) you have to drive through a dark tunnel which appears to have been made out of an extra-large sewer pipe! We scoped the channel between Vardø and Hroyna Island, but did not have time for a boat trip out (recommended to see all the seabirds). Drove to Hamningberg ( literally the end of the road on the Arctic Ocean) and returned to Vadsø.

6/10/99

Drove to Batsfjord, a surprisingly large and modern fishing town on the Arctic Ocean coast, stopping at Tana River delta and various sites on the still-frozen tundra. In the afternoon, returned to Vadsø with stops at Nesseby and Store Ekkeroy.

6/11/99

Drove from Vadsø to Ivalo with various road birding stops. Flight from Ivalo to Helsinki and overnight at Camping Oittaa. Visited Espoon Suomenoja and Espoo Laajalahti in late pm.

6/12/99

Birded Porkkala Tower and surrounding areas. Flight to England.

Species List:

  1. Red-throated Diver
    Seven birds migrating pass Kirkkonummi Headland on 1st, and a pair on small lake near Batsfjord.
  2. Black-throated Diver
    Approximately 80 birds migrating pass Kirkkonummi Headland on 1st, and quite common on lakes in Kuusamo and on the Varangerfjorden.
  3. White-billed Diver
    Satisfactory views of two first or second summer birds on the Varangerfjord near Nesseby on the 9th and 10th.
  4. Great Crested Grebe
    Recorded around Helsinki.
  5. Red-necked Grebe
    Four breeding plumage birds seen on presumed breeding lake at Kuusamo plus single bird at Kirkkonummi Headland.
  6. Slavonian Grebe
    Three summer plumage birds at Espoon Suomenoja.
  7. Gannet
    Just single bird seen off Vardø.
  8. Cormorant
    Maximum seen 20 at Kirkkonummi Headland.
  9. Shag
    Only two birds seen in channel between Vardø and Hrnoya Island.
  10. Grey Heron
    Up to three birds seen on two dates.
  11. Mute Swan
    Only recorded at Kirkkonummi Headland.
  12. Whooper Swan
    Recorded on four dated with maximum of 25 birds at Kuusamo on the 7th.
  13. Bean Goose
    Up to 40 birds. "Taiga Geese" seen on meadows about one kilometer from the Russian boarder at Kuusamo on 7th. Also party of five birds seen a few miles north of Ivalo on the 11th.
  14. Greylag Goose
    Four birds seen near Oulu on the 4th.
  15. Barnacle Goose
    Six birds coming in off the sea at Kirkkonummi Headland on the 1st and a pair on the Tana River on the 10th.
  16. Brent Goose
    Five in off the sea at Kirkkonummi Headland on the 1st and a pair at Hamninberg on the 11th.
  17. Wigeon
    Up to six birds recorded on eight dates.
  18. Gadwall
    Up to four birds seen on three dates.
  19. Teal
    Up to eight birds seen on five dates.
  20. Mallard
    Recorded almost daily in small numbers.
  21. Pintail
    Up to four birds seen on two dates.
  22. Shoveller
    Six birds seen at Espoon Suomenoja on the 11th.
  23. Pochard
    Up to three birds recorded on two dates.
  24. Tufted Duck
    Common.
  25. Scaup
    Two birds seen at along the Varangerfjorden on the 1st.
  26. Eider
    Abundent specie along the Varangerfjorden and off Kirkkonummi Headland.
  27. Steller's Eider
    A party of 13 drakes at Nesseby on the 9th and a party of four drakes and a duck off Store Ekkeroy on the 10th. A very attractive species and one of the highlights of the trip.
  28. King Eider
    At least 21 birds including several adult drakes seen well in the channel between Vardø and Hrnoya Island on the 9th.
  29. Long-tailed Duck
    Single bird seen off Kirkkonummi Headland on the first and daily maximum of up to 50 birds seen three dates along the Varangerfjord.
  30. Common Scoter
    Up to six birds seen on three dates.
  31. White-winged Scoter
    Up to 12 birds seen on four dates.
  32. Goldeneye
    Common breeding bird particularly on the lakes in the Kuusamo region. Family party of female and small young seen at Espoon Suomenoja.
  33. Smew
    Seen only on the lakes in the Kuusamo region with three birds on the 6th, six birds including three drakes on the 7th and single bird on the 8th.
  34. Red-breasted Merganser
    Fairly common with maximum of 30 birds on the 9th.
  35. Goosander
    Common particularly along the Varangerfjord with numbers estimated to be in the low hundreds.
  36. Honey Buzzard
    Excellent views of a single bird low over Camping Oittaa on the 31st plus a single bird seen from the Porkkala Tower on the 3rd.
  37. White-tailed Eagle
    Excellent views of an adult bird seen at approximately 10.00 p.m. near Store Ekkeroy on the 10th. This bird was being mobbed rather cautiously by a Raven. Superb views both in flight and perched of an immature bird at approximately 5.00 a.m. on the 11th near Nesseby. The eagle was being aggressively mobbed by a Rough-legged Buzzard and put on a superb aerial display by flipping over on its back and striking out with its talons every time the buzzard stooped at it. The buzzard prudently kept just out of reach. Without doubt, the bird of the trip.
  38. Hen Harrier
    Pair seen on the 8th near Ivalo. This included accidentally flushing the female off its nest which contained three eggs.
  39. Goshawk
    Female at its nest at Hattula on the 2nd. Good flight views obtained.
  40. Sparrow Hawk
    Single bird seen on two dates.
  41. Rough-legged Buzzard
    Recorded on four dates with all birds north of the Arctic Circle. Daily maximum five birds.
  42. Osprey
    Two birds seen on the 3rd south of Helsinki were the only sightings.
  43. Kestrel
    Only recorded on two dates from Hattula south.
  44. Merlin
    Single bird seen on the 3rd.
  45. Hazel Grouse
    A pair seen well dust-bathing in the road at Hattula on the 2nd and single bird seen briefly on the 6th at the Valtavarra Ridge.
  46. Willow Grouse
    Four birds seen between 5th and 7th at Kuusamo and three birds seen on the 10th near Batsfjord.
  47. Black Grouse
    A lek actually in our campground at the Ovanti Youth Center just outside of Kuusamo. Altogether ten birds seen between 5th and 7th at Kuusamo and several other birds heard calling at leks.
  48. Capercaillie
    Brilliant views of a single male displaying at approx 11.00 p.m on the 4th just outside the Ovanti Youth Center at Kuusamo. Also great views of female flushed from its nest on the 5th at Kuusamo. The bird simply walked off its nest and walked a short distance away. Undoubtably one of the star birds of the trip.
  49. Pheasant
    Seen only on two dates around Helsinki.
  50. Corncrake
    Heard calling on four dates around Kirkkonummi Headland and Porkkala Tower, probably involving at least three different birds. In view of the declining status of this species no attempt was made to tape any out (although we were sorely tempted!)
  51. Moorhen
    Small numbers seen south of Helsinki.
  52. Coot
    Small numbers seen south of Helsinki.
  53. Crane
    Seven birds seen on the 3rd on the drive to Kirkkonummi Headland and approximately 100 birds seen near Oulu on the 4th.
  54. Oystercatcher
    Recorded in small numbers on four dates.
  55. Little Ringed Plover
    Two birds seen on the 11th at Espoon Suomenoja.
  56. Ringed Plover
    Recorded on six dates with daily maximum of 30 birds.
  57. Dotterel
    A single bird seen only in poor flight views flushed near the summit of Kiilopaa hill south of Ivalo. Presence of a number of hikers at the summit in the afternoon undoubtedly affected our chances for good looks at both this species and Ptarmigan; an early morning try is strongly recommended.
  58. Golden Plover
    Up to twelve birds recorded on five dates with all birds north of the Arctic Circle.
  59. Grey Plover
    100 birds migrating pass Kirkkonummi Headland on the 1st. Otherwise two single birds north of the Arctic Circle.
  60. Lapwing
    Small numbers seen on nine dates.
  61. Temminck's Stint
    Single bird on the 2nd at Hattula, five birds seen at Kuusamo on the 5th, 20 birds seen at Ivalo sewage lagoons on the 8th, 15 birds seen on the drive along the Varangerfjord and out to Hamningberg on the 9th and 15 birds seen on the drive along the Tana River and out to Batsfjord on the 10th. Many birds were giving their curious batlike display flight.
  62. Purple Sandpiper
    A party of eight birds in alternate plumage at Hamningberg on the 8th.
  63. Dunlin
    Up to twenty birds seen on four dates.
  64. Broad-billed Sandpiper
    Twenty birds migrating pass Kirkkonummi Headland on the 1st, a pair at Hattula on the 2nd, two birds at Kuusamo on the 5th and two birds at Ivalo on the 8th. These latter birds were displaying and in song flight over an Arctic marsh - superb.
  65. Ruff
    Quite common at Kuusamo and north of the Arctic Circle with daily maximum of at least fifty birds. Many males, in an amazing array of plumages, seen lekking - quite spectacular.
  66. Common Snipe
    Up to eight birds seen on four dates and Kuusamo and north of the Arctic Circle.
  67. Jack Snipe
    A single bird displaying at Kuusamo at 1.00 a.m on the 7th.
  68. Woodcock
    Single bird seen on the 2nd.
  69. Bar-tailed Godwit
    Seen on four dates with daily maximum of ten birds.
  70. Whimbrel
    Seen on four dates with daily maximum of two birds.
  71. Curlew
    Fairly common and recorded almost daily.
  72. Spotted Redshank
    Two birds seen at Kuusamo on the 5th and 8th. All were in summer plumage.
  73. Greenshank
    Seen on three dates with daily maximum of four birds.
  74. Green Sandpiper
    Two birds displaying at Kuusamo on the 6th and a single bird recorded on the 11th.
  75. Wood Sandpiper
    Fairly common at Kuusamo and Ivalo with daily maximum of ten birds. Many birds were displaying.
  76. Common Sandpiper
    Up to two birds seen on five dates.
  77. Turnstone
    Up to six birds seen on three dates.
  78. Red-necked Phalarope
    Five seen on the 7th on the tundra just north of Ivalo. Seen daily around Varanger between 8th and the 10th with most birds being seen at the Nesseby pond. Daily maximum was about 30 birds.
  79. Arctic Skua
    Single bird migrating passed Kirkkonummi Headland on the 1st. Otherwise seen daily around Varanger/Batsfjord region where it was fairly common and clearly breeding. Daily maximum estimated at 25 birds.
  80. Long-tailed Skua
    Another highlight of the trip. Loose colony on the tundra above Batsfjord with an estimated twelve birds all in full breeding plumage. One bird put on spectacular aerial display as it drove a Arctic Skua out of its territory. Two were seen and photographed collecting nesting material along the main road, a very strange sight.
  81. Little Gull
    Estimated 20 birds on the 2nd at Hattula. Suprisingly common at Kuusamo with birds apparently breeding on many of the lakes. We estimated 100+ daily and the true numbers were obviously much larger given the large number of lakes in this region.
  82. Black-headed Gull
    Common and recorded on every day.
  83. Common Gull
    Common species seen daily.
  84. Lesser Black-backed Gull
    Up to eight birds recorded on six date, all of the dark fuscus subspecies. None seen above the Arctic Circle.
  85. Heuglin's (Siberian) Gull
    An immature of this enigmatic gull was seen and photographed at the Oulu landfill.
  86. Herring Gull
    A common species recorded on seven dates. It was interesting to note that at Kuusamo, about a third of the birds had yellow legs, although all other features were identical to their pink-legged companions.
  87. Glaucous Gull
    Single bird seen near Hamninberg on the 9th.
  88. Great Black-backed Gull
    Fairly common being more numerous in the North.
  89. Kittiwake
    Only seen in the Varanger area, especially at Store Ekkerroy where it was truly abundant with tens of thousands seen at its breeding cliffs.
  90. Caspian Tern
    Single bird seen over the lake at Espoo Camping Oiitaa on the 31st.
  91. Common Tern
    Small numbers seen as far north as Ivalo. This species was greatly outnumbered by the Arctic Tern.
  92. Arctic Tern
    One of the most abundant species breeding on almost every lake visited from Kuusamo northwards. Breeding commonly also in the fields and tundra around Varanger.
  93. Guillemot
    As we did not visit Hrnoya Island, our identified alcid numbers are very low. We did see very large numbers of largely unidentified alcids while scoping the channel between Vardø and Hrnoya. Small numbers of this species recorded daily around Varanger.
  94. Razorbill
    Small numbers recorded daily around Varanger; also seen in the channel at Vardø on the 9th.
  95. Puffin
    Small numbers identified in the channel between Vardø and Hrnoya on the 9th.
  96. Black Guillemot
    Up to 100 seen daily around Varanger.
  97. Stock Dove
    Four birds seen on the 1st between Cmping Oiitaa and the Kirkkonummi Headland.
  98. Wood Pigeon
    Small numbers seen four dates all south of the Arctic Circle.
  99. Collared Dove
    Single bird seen on the 8th at Ivalo where it is a local rarity.
  100. Cuckoo
    Seen or heard almost daily as far north as Ivalo.
  101. Hawk Owl
    A pair at nest near Ivalo on the 8th. Both birds aggressively mobbed us by noisily diving-bombing at our heads. Quite spectacular and superb views both in flight and perched. A close second (to the Sea Eagle) as bird of the trip. Had we not seen this species well in America previously, no doubt this would have been No.1.
  102. Pygmy Owl
    An adult at nest containing seven young at Hattula on the 2nd and an adult at a nest with nine young near Oulu on the 9th. The adult birds were seen very well both in the field and later in the hand.
  103. Ural Owl
    Two nests with three adult birds seen very well in the field and in the hand on the 2nd at Hattula. Another major highlight of the trip.
  104. Great Grey Owl
    Female on nest and excellent views of male perched in adjacent tree (in heavy rain) on the 4th near Oulu. Again one of the trip highlights.
  105. Tengmalm's Owl.
    An adult and juvenile looking out of nest hole at Hattula on the 2nd.
  106. Swift
    Recorded in fair numbers on seven dates in the south around Helsinki.
  107. Wryneck
    An adult well seen at its nest at Hattula on the 2nd.
  108. Grey-headed Woodpecker
    Two birds seen on 1st at Nuuksio National Park, about 20K nw of Camping Oiitaa.
  109. Black Woodpecker
    Two birds seen at the Espoo Campground on the 1st and single bird at Hattula on the 2nd.
  110. Great Spotted Woodpecker
    Quite common in the south around Helsinki and recorded on five dates.
  111. Lesser Spotted Woodpecker
    A pair seen well at Hattula on the 2nd.
  112. Three-toed Woodpecker
    An adult female seen around its nestsite at Hattula on the 2nd.
  113. Skylark
    Recorded daily in the south around Helsinki and two birds on the 7th near Kuusamo.
  114. Shore Lark
    The only record was of a single singing bird on the tundra above Batsfjord.
  115. Sand Martin
    Recorded on four dates.
  116. Swallow
    Fairly common and recorded on six dates and as far north as Ivalo.
  117. House Martin
    The most numerous hirundine and recorded on all but one day. The only hirundine recorded at Varanger.
  118. Tree Pipit
    Small numbers recorded daily in the south with daily maximum four birds. Single bird recorded on the 6th on the drive between Kuusamo and Ivalo.
  119. Meadow Pipit
    Seen on four dates all north of the Arctic Circle with daily maximum of only three birds.
  120. Red-throated Pipit
    Seen daily at Varanger/Batsfjord with daily maximum eight birds.
  121. Rock Pipit
    Up to three birds seen on two dates at Varanger.
  122. Yellow Wagtail
    Recorded on four dates with daily maximum of ten birds. The birds were of the grey-headed race thunbergi.
  123. White Wagtail
    A common species and seen virtually every day.
  124. Waxwing
    Three birds seen on the 5th at Kuusamo and three more on the 8th at Ivalo.
  125. Wren
    Fairly common in the south around Helsinki and four birds seen as far north as Kuusamo.
  126. Dunnock
    Just a single bird seen near Kirkkonummi Headland.
  127. Robin
    Recorded regularly in the south and four birds seen as far north as Kuusamo.
  128. Thrush Nightingale
    Single bird seen and heard at Espoo Camping on the 31st. Quite common at the Vermo Racetrack with eight birds on the 1st and 15 birds on the 3rd. Also heard at Espoo Campground on the 11th and 12th.
  129. Bluethroat
    Four birds seen on the 7th at Kuusamo, five birds on the 8th at Ivalo and five birds on the 9th in the Varanger area.
  130. Red-flanked Bluetail
    A pair seen at close range but very briefly at Valtavarra Ridge on the 6th.
  131. Redstart
    Seen on two dates with a daily maximum of 6 birds around Kuusamo.
  132. Whinchat
    Recorded on just two dates with daily maximum of two birds.
  133. Stonechat
    Single bird seen suprisingly at Varanger on the 9th.
  134. Northern Wheatear
    Daily maximum of ten birds and seen on five dates with the preponderance of records in the Varanger area.
  135. Blackbird
    Fairly common in the south around Helsinki.
  136. Fieldfare
    Common throughout Finland and seen daily.
  137. Song Thrush
    Heard singing on all three dates at Kuusamo.
  138. Redwing
    Less numerous than the Fieldfare, but again quite common throughout Finland and seen on every day.
  139. Mistle Thrush
    Three birds seen on the 7th at Kuusamo.
  140. Grasshopper Warbler
    Just a single bird seen and heard singing on the 3rd at the Vermo Racetrack.
  141. River Warbler
    One seen on the 1st at the Vermo Racetrack, one on the 2nd at Hattula, two birds on the 3rd at the Vermo Racetrack and one bird on the 12th at bridge between Bergstad and Estinklyä
  142. Sedge Warbler
    Fairly common in the South around Helsinki, but also heard singing at Ivalo and Varanger.
  143. Blyth's Reed Warbler
    Excellent views of a pair at the Vermo Racetrack on the 1st and 3rd with the male singing and female nest building.
  144. Marsh Warbler
    Suprisingly good numbers of singing males well seen at the Vermo Racetrack with four birds on the 1st and about twelve birds on the 3rd. Also single bird heard on the 11th.
  145. Reed Warbler
    Six birds seen at Espoon Suomenoja and Espoo Laajalahti on the 11th.
  146. Icterine Warbler
    Single birds on the 2nd at the Vermo Racetrack and 3rd at Hattala.
  147. Lesser Whitethroat
    Seen on three dates in the South with daily maximum of four birds.
  148. Barred Warbler
    Brief views of a singing male on the 12th near bridge between Bergstad and Estinklyä.
  149. Whitethroat
    Fairly common in the South around Helsinki with birds recorded on six dates.
  150. Garden Warbler
    Fairly common in the South around Helsinki with birds recorded on six dates.
  151. Blackcap
    Only seen on one date around Helsinki.
  152. Greenish Warbler
    Excellent views of a singing male near the Porkkala Tower on the 12th.
  153. Wood Warbler
    Fairly common in suitable habitat around Helsinki with birds seen on three dates and daily maximum of eight birds.
  154. Chiffchaff
    Suprisingly uncommon seen or heard on three dates only all in the South.
  155. Willow Warbler
    Extremely abundant throughout Finland and seen daily even as far north as Varanger. Probably the most common landbird in Finland.
  156. Goldcrest
    Uncommon seen and/or heard on two dates only.
  157. Spotted Flycatcher
    Daily maximum of three birds and recorded on two dates in the South.
  158. Pied Flycatcher
    Daily maximum of six birds and recorded on five dates and as far North as Ivalo.
  159. Willow Tit
    Single birds seen on the 7th at Ivalo and 10th by the Tanan River. The birds appeared quite large and pale and were considered to be of the race borealis.
  160. Siberian Tit
    Superb views of three adults at nest at Kuusamo on the 5th and a pair at a nest at Ivalo on the 8th - much hoped for and very nice birds.
  161. Crested Tit
    Single birds seen on the 2nd at Hattula and 4th near Oulu.
  162. Blue Tit
    Fairly common in the South around Helsinki.
  163. Great Tit
    Fairly common in the South around Helsinki. Also recorded at Kuusamo.
  164. Treecreeper
    Single bird recorded on the 3rd.
  165. Red-backed Shrike
    Males seen on the 2nd at Hattala and on the 3rd.
  166. Jay
    Two per day on four dates in the South.
  167. Siberian Jay
    After almost giving up hope, three birds seen at the parking lot on the road across the Valtavarra Ridge on the 6th - excellent birds and a great relief.
  168. Magpie
    Common and widespread seen every day even as far North as Varanger.
  169. Jackdaw
    Fairly common in the South around Helsinki but none seen farther north.
  170. Rook
    Seen only around Oulu.
  171. Hooded Crow
    Common and widespread seen every day and as far North as Varanger.
  172. Raven
    Recorded on six dates from Kuusamo north to Varanger with daily maximum of ten birds.
  173. Starling
    Common in the South and seen regularly in small numbers in the Varanger area but not seen in the Kuusamo and Ivalo areas.
  174. House Sparrow
    Common and widespread and seen in most areas visited except Kuusamo.
  175. Chaffinch
    Very common in the South around Helsinki and quite common as far north as Ivalo. Not seen north of Ivalo.
  176. Brambling
    Seen in small numbers from Kuusamo northwards including the Varanger area. Maximum daily count was only six birds seen but with others head calling.
  177. Greenfinch
    Common in the south around Helsinki. Also seen in small numbers around Ivalo and Vadso.
  178. Siskin
    Fairly common in the South with daily maximum of 25 birds and birds seen as far north as Ivalo.
  179. Mealy Redpoll
    Not seen at all in the South but quite common from Kuusamo north to the Varanger area. Daily maximum was 10+ birds on several dates.
  180. Arctic Redpoll
    The only place where this species was seen for certain was on the tundra above Batsfjord where good views were obtained of about 10 birds seen feeding and singing in dwarf willow scrub.
  181. Crossbill
    Several parties totalling at least 40 birds seen around Kirkkonummi Headland and Porkkala Tower on the 1st and smaller numbers in the south on three other dates.
  182. Parrot Crossbill
    A party of four birds seen and heard well at the Kirkkonummi Headland on the 1st.
  183. Common Rosefinch
    Quite common in the South with daily maximum of 15 birds seen on the 3rd at the Vermo Racetrack.
  184. Bullfinch
    Fairly common in the Kuusamo and Ivalo regions with daily maximum of ten birds on the 7th. These birds were of the Northern Scandinavian race and were distinctly larger, plumper, and the males noticably brighter colored than their English equivalents. Really very attractive birds.
  185. Lapland Bunting
    Seen in small numbers on the tundra at Varanger and above Batsfjord with five birds on the 9th and eight on the 10th. All birds were in their beautiful summer plumage.
  186. Snow Bunting
    Two pairs at Varanger on the 9th and a pair above Batsfjord on the 10th. It was very nice to see the males in their striking summer plumage.
  187. Yellowhammer
    Common in the South around Helsinki.
  188. Ortolan Bunting
    Two singing males seen near Oulu on the 4th.
  189. Little Bunting
    Two singing males seen near Ivalo on the 8th.
  190. Reed Bunting
    Small numbers seen throughout Finland and as far north as Varanger. Daily maximum was four birds.

Misses:

We missed several species which are at least "hoped-for" in a June trip to Finland, and in some cases, the reasons might be helpful to other birders. Essentially, we were too early for Yellow-breasted Bunting which had not come in yet to Oulu; in addition, there appear not to be as many reliable sites for this species as in previous years. Rustic Buntings were literally just arriving at Kuusamo, with no birds on stable territories; we chased several reported singing males but with no luck. The first two weeks of June are too early for Arctic Warbler, according to the Finns. We didn't try for Terek Sandpiper at Oulu, but heard they were not in yet (and also getting hard to find). Eagle Owls still had very young chicks in the nest, and since they are prone to desertion we didn't try to visit any nests and didn't connect with any birds "on spec." Interestingly enough, in 1998 I was also in Finland in early June, and that year the Eagle Owls had already fledged! So owls are difficult to predict; weather rather than calendar is important.

Accomodations:

Helsinki

Espoo Camping Oiitaa (self-catered cabins), restaurant, laundry, good birding on site (Black Woodpecker, Thrush Nightingale). Very convenient to important birding sites, shopping, major freeways, even a McDonald's! Ask for cabins on west side, as they are quieter. Contact: myyntipalvelu@lomaliito.fi, ph: (358) 9-863-2585

Kuusamo

Oivanki Youth Centre, excellent self-catered apartment with all facilities, the manager's husband is a keen and helpful birder, excellent birds on site (incl. lekking Black Grouse, Capercaillie). We stayed there just before school was out, and were the only guests, but later in the season youth groups stay here so it might become crowded or noisy. Meals are available. Contact: Tiina Mäkelä, manager, Tiina.Makela@kuusamo.fi, ph: (358) 8-858-561

Ivalo

Campground Näverniemen Lomakylä. They have the typical cabins, but we ended up in a self-catered motel room with en suite bath for same price as they had overbooked the cabins. Restaurant and store, on lake with some birds. Contact: ph: (358) 16-677-601

Vadsø

Camping Jakobselv, in Vestre Jacobselv. Self-catered cabins, laundry. They also have guestrooms in the main building. Convenient to major birding sites. Contact: Camping Jakobselv, Lilledalsveien 6, 9810 Vestre Jakobselv, ph: (47) 78-956-064.

Appreciation

This trip would not have been possible without a considerable amount of help and encouragement from Finnish birders. We would especially like to thank Annika Forsten, Heikki Loki, Martin Helin, Jyrki Mäkelä, and Heikki Seppänen, as well as Mark Suomala, of the Audubon Society of New Hampshire (which runs a Finnish birding trip each year).

Books:

For a field guide we used the new Collins Field Guide to the Birds of Europe, which is superb. Gustaf Aulén's Where to Watch Birds in Scandinavia helped with many of the major sites. ID and site articles in various issues of the Finnish magazine Aulula proved useful as well. Finally, there are many excellent trip reports posted on Urs Geiser's web site, with links to other home pages, such as Tommy Pedersen's Birding the Varanger Peninsula and Morten Günther's Birding in Finnmark, both of which are extremely important for the Norwegian segment of the trip. For travel logistics, we consulted the Lonely Planet Guide for Finland.

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This page served with permission of the author by Urs Geiser; ugeiser@xnet.com; September 29, 2000