Trip Report: The Birds and Mammals of India and Nepal (With special reference to Bandhavgarh and Kanha National Parks, Madhya Pradesh State), October 21, 1998 - April 10, 1999

This tour was made possible by working as a volunteer naturalist/guide with Tiger Resorts Pvt. of New Delhi.

Itinerary

I arrived in New Delhi from London (flying on Emirates Airlines via Dubai) on Oct. 21 and started serious birding two days later around the Taj Mahal at Agra in Rajasthan State. From there I went on to Bharatpur, a place often considered to be India's premier birding location.

A week later I returned to Rajasthan from New Delhi. This time I travelled to Jaipur, and then on to Pushkar, on the eastern edge of the Thar Desert, to visit the annual camel festival. I returned to New Delhi by overnight bus on Nov. 4.

After a day in New Delhi I was back on the road to central Madhya Pradesh State where I remained, except for a couple of trips to Uttar Pradesh and Rajasthan states, until early April. During this time I stayed at two places: Bandhavgarh National Park, north of Umaria, between Nov. 6 and Feb. 20, and Kanha National Park, southeast of Jabalpur, from Feb. 20 to Apr. 6. At both of these localities I stayed at the jungle lodges operated by Tiger Resorts Pvt.

During my five months in Madhya Pradesh State I made three excursions away from the parks. The first was in early December to see the Siberian Cranes at Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary, and this was followed two weeks later by a quick 2-day visit to Varanasi (Benares) in Uttar Pradesh State. In late January I travelled briefly to New Delhi and then, via Jodphur, to Jaisalmer in western Rajasthan State. While there I went on a 3-day camel safari in the Thar Desert.

After leaving Kanha in early April I journied to Varanasi, and then took the overnight bus to the Nepal border at Sonauli. From there I went directly to Katmandu. In Nepal I visited Pokhara for a few days, then to Royal Chitwan National Park, back to Katmandu and then by bus (19 hours) to Mahendra-ganj in the far southwestern corner of Nepal.

After crossing the border I took a bus from Banbasa to Ghaziabad, east of New Delhi, and spent one night in Paharganj in New Delhi. The following evening I took an overnight bus north to McLeod-ganj (Upper Dharamsala) in Himachal Pradesh State, and after a couple of days of enjoying the mountain scenery and cedar forests, left for my final destination: the old British hill station of Dalhousie.

I left New Delhi on April 10 for London, again travelling via Dubai. Breakfast in New Delhi, lunch in Dubai and dinner in London!

Transportation

By bus, by train, by rickshaw, by camel! Except by plane, by just about everything, it seems! The most frequently used were buses and trains. Both were cheap, sometimes reliable, sometimes on time, but on the buses the safety factor was questionable. On trains 2nd class (non-airconditioned) sleepers were used for long journies.

Warning: Despite travelling extensively only one incident of pilfering occurred, near Agra when a camera and lens were stolen. The Delhi-Agra trains, used by many travellers, are a magnet for thieves, and I heard of several incidents where travellers had lost their bags. The only other incident was in Katmandu, when two guys on a motorbike tried to snatch the shoulder bag of a Canadian girl I was travelling with.

Weather

From October onward it is mainly dry through most of India and during the almost 7 months that I was in India and Nepal there was rain on only 6 or 7 days. The days are mostly sunny with variable cloud cover, although there were a couple of cloudy periods which brought rain or drizzle. From late December to early February it was very cold in the lowland areas of Bandhavgarh, and on several mornings frost covered the reeds and grass in the lowest lying area. But by breakfast time, after the sun had risen, it was once again hot. From mid February onward the temperature rose steadily, and by late April/early May it was around 40-44°C at midday. At Royal Chitwan National Park in late April it was incredibly humid.

Field Guides

With the publication of Birds of the Indian Subcontinent in late 1998 a comprehensive -- if somewhat heavy (2.5 kg) -- field guide is now available for birders to use. I found copies on sale in both New Delhi and Katmandu at prices considerably cheaper than the quoted price in England (£30 in Katmandu/£35 in New Delhi as opposed to £55 in London). My field guide for most of the journey was Salim Ali's The Book of Indian Birds (Bombay Natural History Society, 1996) which was useless at times, adequate at others, but definitely better than nothing at all. By late 1999, Birds of the Indian Subcontinent was available in true field guide form, with just colour plates and brief descriptions (£17.99 in London).

Gazeteer

Locations of some of the places mentioned in the text:

Bandhavgarh National Park/Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge. Situated about 30 km north of Umaria in Madhya Pradesh State. Nearest village: Tala, 1 hour by bus from Umaria. Nearest station: Umaria (reached by the Utkul Express train from Hazrat Nizamuddin Station in New Delhi).

Kanha National Park/Kanha Jungle Lodge. Situated 13 km from Baihar in Madhya Pradesh State. Nearest villages: Manjitola, Mukki, 4 hours by bus from Mandla. Nearest station: Jabalpur.

Keoladeo Ghana National Park, Bharatpur (Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary). Situated about 2 km south of Bharatpur City in Rajasthan State. On the main bus route between Agra-Jaipur. Approximately 1.5 hours from Idgah Bus Terminal in Agra to Saras Hotel junction, on the southwestern outskirts of Bharatpur. Nearest station: Bharatpur.

Royal Chitwan National Park. Nearest village: Sauraha, about 5 hours by bus from Katmandu.

Birds

1. Black Francolin - A few birds seen or heard close to the Rapti River at Sauraha and at Royal Chitwan National Park between Apr. 20-23.

2. Grey Francolin - Five birds seen in acacia scrub at the entrance to Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary on Dec. 5. Often heard, and occasionally seen, near both Bandhavgarh and Kanha jungle lodges, but not recorded within the national park boundaries.

3. Painted Francolin - A single bird seen inside Kanha National Park on Mar. 27.

4. Painted Spurfowl - Occasionally seen at the eastern side of Bandhavgarh National Park, e.g. one female on Nov. 9 and two birds on Dec. 28 and a male on Dec. 31.

5. Red Junglefowl - Seen or heard almost daily at both Bandhavgarh and Kanha National Parks but commoner -- and tamer -- at Royal Chitwan National Park. At Bandhavgarh three males seen on Dec. 9 and five males and three females seen on Dec. 20.

6. Indian Peafowl - Seen and heard daily in both Bandhavgarh and Kanha National Parks, and birds were seen in central New Delhi also. Ten birds seen at Kanha National Park on Mar. 26. At Royal Chitwan National Park 7 birds noted on Apr. 21.

7. Greylag Goose - Several hundred birds present at Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary in January. At Kanha National Park, six birds seen on a shallow pond on Feb. 25 and again on the following day.

8. Bar-headed Goose - Fifty-six birds seen flying over the Yamuna River behind the Taj Mahal at dusk on Dec. 3. At Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary large flocks of birds -- several thousand -- present in January.

9. Lesser Whistling Duck - Birds flying over Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge at night on a couple of occasions were presumably from nearby Garpuri Dam, where up to 100 were seen on visits there. Large numbers present at Sondhar Tank in Kanha National Park in March, with 180 counted on Mar. 11.

10. Ruddy Shelduck - At Agra 12 birds seen flying over the Yamuna River at dusk on Dec. 3. Several birds found feeding in paddy fields near Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary in January. Two birds recorded near Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge on Feb. 15. A flock of 5 birds seen flying north high over Kanha National Park on March 26 were presumed migrants.

11. Comb Duck - A few birds noted at Kanha National Park on several dates, but otherwise seen only at Bharatpur, where good numbers were present in January.

12. Cotton Pygmy-Goose - Good numbers seen at Bharatpur in December and January. At Kanha National Park up to 10 birds seen during March at Sondhar Tank.

13. Wigeon - Recorded at Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary on Jan. 31 but no count made. Two males and a female feeding in the Rapti River at Sauraha on Apr. 20

14. Mallard - A female seen at Pokara waterhole in the Thar Desert southwest of Jaisalmer on Jan. 26.

15. Spot-billed Duck - Two birds seen at Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary on Oct. 24, and two recorded there on Dec. 5.

16. Garganey - At Kanha National Park recorded in small numbers on several dates, i.e. 6 birds on Mar. 3 and 4 males and 4 females present on Mar. 11.

17. Northern Shoveler - A male was seen on a small lake near Jodhpur Fort on Jan. 24 and fifteen birds were noted at Gadi Sar Lake, Jaisalmer, on Jan. 29.

18. Northern Pintail - In Rajasthan State, 289 birds were counted at Gadi Sar Lake in Jaisalmer on Jan. 29. Near Bandhavgarh National Park, a small flock of 13 birds was recorded at Garpuri Dam, south of Tala, on Feb. 2. At Kanha National Park, 5 males and 6 females noted on Mar. 11.

19. Common Pochard - A male and a female found on a small tank near Jodhpur Fort on Jan. 24.

20. Ferruginous Duck - At Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary good numbers present in December and January. No counts made.

21. Common Teal - A lone male recorded at Bameira Dam, north of Tala, on Jan. 14. Recorded at Bandhavgarh National Park as follows: a small flock of 25 birds disturbed from a tank on the plateau behind Bandhavgarh Fort on Nov. 22, and two males seen at a pond on Nov. 29. Additionally three males were found feeding on a small tank near Jodhpur Fort on Jan. 24 and 10 birds were at Gadi Sar Lake, Jaisalmer, on Jan. 29.

22. Rufous Woodpecker - Two birds seen at Kanha National Park on Mar. 3.

23. Brown-capped Pygmy Woodpecker - Often seen in the forests at both Bandhavgarh and Kanha National Parks.

24. Yellow-crowned Woodpecker - Seen infrequently near both Bandhavgarh and Kanha jungle lodges, and also recorded in the north of India at Dalhousie in May.

25. Brown-fronted Woodpecker - Two birds, a male and a female, seen at Dalhousie in Himachal Pradesh State on May 4.

26. Lesser Yellownape - A bird seen at Kanha National Park on Feb. 25.

27. Scaly-bellied Woodpecker - A male seen at Kanha National Park on Mar. 3, and a pair seen the following day. Two birds recorded on Mar. 10, another male was seen on Mar. 14 and a female was recorded near Mukki Gate on Mar. 15.

28. Common Flameback - Reasonably common in large tracts of forest at both Bandhavgarh and Kanha National Parks, and also seen at Royal Chitwan National Park.

29. Himalayan Flameback - Seen only at Royal Chitwan National Park, where 4 birds were seen on Apr. 21.

30. White-naped Woodpecker - A species which could be hard to find, and easily confused with Common Flameback if not seen properly. Fairly widespread at both Bandhavgarh and Kanha National Parks.

31. Great Barbet - Several birds seen around the Pokhara/Sarangkot region. A noisy bird easily located.

32. Brown-headed Barbet - Very often heard and occasionally seen at both Bandhavgarh and Kanha.

33. Blue-throated Barbet - In Nepal seen in small numbers around the Pokhara/Sarangkot area and also at Royal Chitwan National Park.

34. Coppersmith Barbet - First seen in the park in the centre of Connaught Square in New Delhi, and subsequently often heard and seen at both Bandhavgarh and Kanha. More often heard than seen. A pair seen entering a nesthole at the top of a large tree opposite Mukki Gate at Kanha National Park on March 11.

35. Indian Grey Hornbill - At Bandhavgarh occasionally seen near the lodge and along the forest road south of Tala. Eight birds noted along the forest road west of Tala on Feb. 18.

36. Malabar Pied Hornbill - Small parties seen infrequently below Sesh Shayya or at the fort within Bandhavgarh National Park, and occasionally met with in other areas of the park. Seven birds seen on Dec. 9 and six birds noted on Dec. 25. At Kanha seen or heard on only two or three occasions.

37. Hoopoe - A fairly common winter visitor seen in several places, sometimes in small parties. In Old Delhi, three birds seen at the Red Fort on Oct. 28.

38. Indian Roller - A common bird seen virtually everywhere. Especially noticeable beside railway tracks and in agricultural areas. At Kanha National Park, a pair seen mating in a tree on Feb. 25, and displaying birds watched in late March/early April. Six birds noted there on Apr. 18.

39. Dollarbird - Only one record, of a single bird flying over the Rapti River at Royal Chitwan National Park on Apr. 20.

40. Common Kingfisher - Good numbers seen at Bharatpur, and frequently seen from trains and buses when passing by ponds and rivers. Occasionally seen at Bandhavgarh National Park, and often seen at Sondhar Tanks at Kanha National Park.

41. Stork-billed Kingfisher - One bird seen occasionally near the park entrance at Bandhavgarh. A single seen along the Rapti River at Sauraha on Apr. 20.

42. White-throated Kingfisher - A common Indian species: often seen at both Bandhavgarh and Kanha, and quite common beside the road or along rail lines wherever I travelled.

43. Pied Kingfisher - A family party including three juveniles seen in the Rapti River at Royal Chitwan National Park on Apr. 22. At Garpuri Dam south of Tala, two birds seen on Feb. 16.

44. Green Bee-eater - Up to 6 birds seen around Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge between Nov. 6-Feb. 20, and also seen inside Kanha National Park and near Kanha Jungle Lodge.

45. Blue-tailed Bee-eater -Two birds flew over Manjitola Village on Mar. 18 and 10 birds were seen nearby two days later. The following day 8 birds, presumably from the same flock, were seen over Kanha National Park. Five were seen at Kanha on Mar. 26. Four birds were found feeding over the Rapti River at Sauraha on Apr. 20, and 5 were seen the following day in Royal Chitwan National Park. Two birds noted near Sauraha on Apr. 22 and 23.

46. Chestnut-headed Bee-eater - Three birds recorded on Apr. 16, 1 on Apr. 18 and 2 on Apr. 19 when hiking in the hills between Pokhara and Sarangkot. The only other record was of a single at Royal Chitwan National Park on Apr. 21.

47. Common Hawk Cuckoo - At Bandhavgarh one or two birds seen in the forest during the winter, but hard to find as they are silent at that time. From March onwards at Kanha National Park several birds seen or heard daily, and often heard calling at night too. Birds were heard at Pokhara in April and also recorded at Royal Chitwan National Park.

48. Indian Cuckoo - Calling birds heard in the forests near Mukki and Manjitola villages from mid-March onward, and single birds occasionally seen. Heard also at Pokhara in April, and a single seen on Apr. 18 just west of Pokhara. Another single was seen flying over Royal Chitwan National Park on Apr. 21 and two birds noted at Sauraha the following day.

49. Common Cuckoo - At Shwayambhunath Temple in west Katmandu, a male heard on Apr. 11. Heard at Pokhara on Apr. 17 and a male was singing in central Katmandu on Apr. 26.

50. Asian Koel - A single male being mobbed by Jungle Babblers close to Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge on Jan. 14 was the only record for Bandhavgarh. One recorded near Manjitola Village on Mar. 30. Otherwise only seen (or more often heard) at Pokhara and at Royal Chitwan National Park in mid-.April.

51. Green-billed Malkoha - A single bird seen in the hills above Pokhara on Apr. 19.

52. Sirkeer Malkoha - One at Bharatpur on Oct. 24 and one at Bandhavgarh on Feb. 11.

53. Greater Coucal - At both Bandhavgarh and Kanha National Parks up to 3 birds seen on many days, including birds which came into the lodge compounds.

54. Lesser Coucal - A few birds seen at Royal Chitwan National Park on Apr. 21. Prefers large areas of tall grassland rather than forested areas favoured by the preceding species.

55. Alexandrine Parakeet - At Bandhavgarh National Park birds were seen on most days, but only in small numbers, e.g. 10 in a tree on Dec. 25, and a further 8 birds seen elsewhere in the park on the same day. At Kanha National Park 25 birds noted on Mar. 24.

56. Slaty-headed Parakeet - Birds seen only at Dalhousie, where a flock of 5 were seen on May 4 and a flock of 10 seen the following day.

57. Plum-headed Parakeet - At Bandhavgarh National Park often seen in pairs or small groups. The highest count was on Dec. 8 when a flock of 30 was recorded. Also often seen at Kanha National Park, again mostly either singles or pairs or in small groups.

58. Rose-ringed Parakeet - A common species all over India except for the dry areas of western Rajasthan State. Also common at Royal Chitwan National Park. Frequently encountered in the centre of New Delhi and other large cities.

59. Red-breasted Parakeet - At Royal Chitwan National Park recorded in large flocks during the early morning and late afternoon when birds were flying to/from their roosting sites. Flocks of 10-30 birds commonly seen.

60. Himalayan Swiftlet - Small numbers seen only around Lake Phewa in Pokhara or in the hills between Pokhara and Sarangkot.

61. House Swift - Large numbers seen in the main cities, e.g. about 500 at Agra Fort on Oct. 23, several hundred over the Ganges at Varanasi in mid December, and also seen at Jabalpur in February. At Bameira Dam, 15 km north of Tala, 12 birds recorded on Jan. 14. Occasional records for both Bandhavgarh and Kanha Jungle Lodges.

62. Alpine Swift - Three birds seen high over Kisli Gate on the northwest side of Kanha National Park on Apr. 17. Additionally, 2 birds noted at Sarangkot, above Pokhara, on Apr. 17.

63. Crested Treeswift - Birds seen feeding over the forest at Bandhavgarh and Kanha National Parks on several occasions, and also seen at Garpuri Dam, near Tala, on two occasions. A flock of 29 noted over Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge on Dec. 11 and another flock of 20 seen on Dec. 25. Easily located by call: a whistled "wee-you," falling on the second syllable.

64. Barn Owl - At Varanasi two birds heard calling, and one bird seen, from an old building beside the Ganges on Dec. 16. The only other record was of a single bird seen flying through Thamel, in the centre of Katmandu, on Apr. 24.

65. Collared Scops Owl - Two roosting birds were seen at Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary on Jan. 31.

66. Brown Fish Owl - A pair of birds which roosted in a tree not far from the entrance of Bandhavgarh National Park were seen on three or four occasions, e.g. Dec. 19. Two birds were seen close to the Banjar River at Kanha National Park on Mar. 3 and a single was seen in the same area on Mar. 7.

67. Mottled Wood Owl - Three birds seen near the park entrance at Bandhavgarh on Nov. 6, and these birds could occasionally be heard calling around dusk from the lodge. [Owls calling on several occasions at dusk south of Manjitola Village were thought to be of this species. The call was a somewhat musical double hoo-hoo, rising on the second syllable. During the still early morning or late evening air, these calls carried for a considerable distance.]

68. Jungle Owlet - Heard several times at Bandhavgarh before finally being seen on Feb. 4. At Kanha birds seen on only 2-3 occasions.

69. Spotted Owlet - A pair resident at Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge were seen most days roosting in the Flame of the Forest Trees at the lodge entrance. Noted catching flying termites on Feb. 9.

70. Savanna Nightjar - Live birds identified on call only -- an often uttered, far-carrying and somewhat metallic "dzeet" or "jeet" both at rest in tree tops at dusk or while flying. One or two birds seen and heard several times just south of Manjitola village and also along the Rapti River at Royal Chitwan National Park. A dead female found beside the road south of Manjitola village on Mar. 4.

71. Indian Nightjar - A bird heard calling at dusk near Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge on Feb. 18.

72. Oriental Turtle Dove - Often seen at Bandhavgarh National Park and several birds could often be found feeding on the forest road south of Tala in the early mornings. Also frequently seen at Kanha National Park.

73. Spotted Dove - A common species all over India, and recorded in cities, towns and at both Bandhavgarh and Kanha National Parks in reasonable numbers.

74. Red Turtle Dove - At Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary several birds found in the fields behind the reserve on Dec. 6. Also noted at various localities in Nepal.

75. Collared Dove - Occasionally seen flying over Tala village, and also recorded at Kanha National Park, where three birds were seen on Feb. 26.

76. Emerald Dove - A single bird flushed in Tala Village on Jan. 13 was the only record for the Bandhavgarh area. Not recorded at Kanha. At Royal Chitwan National Park 2 birds seen on Apr. 21.

77. Yellow-footed Green Pigeon - Relatively common at Bandhavgarh National Park, especially in the early mornings when birds were seen sitting in the tops of trees warming themselves in the sun. A flock of 41 birds seen on Nov. 12 and 40 noted on Dec. 9. In Tala Village a flock of 35 birds recorded on Dec. 27. At Kanha National Park quite common, and seen on most days.

78. Laughing Dove - A common species found in all residential areas but harder to find in the countryside. Three birds seen near Sitorai Village in the Thar Desert southwest of Jaisalmer on Jan. 27, and six birds seen the following day.

79. Siberian Crane - Two adults seen at Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary on Dec. 4, 5 and 6 and again on Jan. 31 -- the only two birds to make it to India this winter.

80. Sarus Crane - None recorded from Bharatpur or Kanha, but several birds seen from the train between Agra and New Delhi and Varanasi and Katni Junction on various dates. At Bharatpur, 18 birds found in fields behind the bird sanctuary on Dec. 6, and two adults with two well-grown chicks were seen inside the reserve on Jan. 31.

81. Common Crane - A flock of about 60 birds found feeding in fields behind Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary on Dec. 6, and several heard calling from inside the park on Jan. 31.

82. Purple Gallinule - Large flocks of birds seen in flooded meadows at Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary on several dates in December and January.

83. White-breasted Waterhen - Several birds seen on different dates at Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary, and also occasionally recorded at Bandhavgarh and Kanha National Parks.

84. Common Moorhen - One bird heard at Badrashilla Pond inside Bandhavgarh National Park on Jan. 3. At Gadi Sar Lake in Jaisalmer, 5 birds seen on Jan. 29. At Royal Chitwan National Park several birds seen on small streams and ponds on Apr. 21.

85. Common Coot - About 60 birds were noted at Gadi Sar Lake, Jaisalmer, on Jan. 29.

86. Black-bellied Sandgrouse - A flock of about 80 birds found in dry, stony terrain near to Pokara waterhole in the Thar Desert southwest of Jaisalmer on Jan. 26. The following day 17 birds, probably of this species, seen flying north high over the desert.

87. Redshank - Noted at Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary on Oct. 25, but not counted. Four individuals were at an irrigation tank at Pushkar in Rajasthan State on Nov. 2.

88. Spotted Redshank - At Pushkar in Rajasthan State, 2 birds were feeding at an irrigation tank on Nov. 2. Three birds found at Gadi Sar Lake in Jaisalmer on Jan. 29.

89. Common Greenshank - At Jodhpur Fort, a single bird found on a tank on Jan. 24, and a single seen at Gadi Sar Lake, Jaisalmer, on Jan. 29. A few birds noted at Kanha National Park between February-April. On the Rapti River near Chitwan National Park, a greenshank noted on Apr. 23 was not specifically identified as T. nebularia.

90. Green Sandpiper - Two birds noted at Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary on Dec. 5. A single seen at Gadi Sar Lake in Jaisalmer on Jan. 29.

91. Wood Sandpiper - At Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary 12 birds seen on Dec. 5. Occasionally seen at Kanha National Park, e.g. one on Mar. 3, and also seen along the Banjar River near Manjitola.

92. Common Sandpiper - Often seen in small numbers around large lakes and on rivers at several localities.

93. Marsh Sandpiper - Two birds noted feeding with other waders at Gadi Sar Lake in Jaisalmer on Jan. 29.

94. Temminck's Stint - Recorded only at the Rapti River at Royal Chitwan National Park where 2+ birds were seen on Apr. 23 .

95. Ruff - Two birds at Gadi Sar Lake in Jaisalmer on Jan. 29 was the only record.

96. Eurasian Curlew - At Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary, six birds seen on Oct. 25. In Rajasthan State, six birds flew in from the north at Gadi Sar Lake on the southern outskirts of Jaisalmer on Jan. 29.

97. Cream-coloured Courser - Six birds seen in arid country near Sitorai village, southwest of Jaisalmer, on Jan. 27. On the following day the same six birds were seen, plus another individual.

98. Eurasian Thick-knee - A single seen near Pokara Waterhole, southwest of Jaisalmer, on Jan. 26. At Bandhavgarh, 2 birds found close to the jungle lodge on Feb. 19. On the road between Manjitola and Baihar one seen at nighttime on Feb. 28 and two birds seen in headlights at nighttime on Mar. 3. Recorded only once inside Kanha National Park, on Feb. 26.

99. Black-winged Stilt - A single feeding at a small pool near the Amber Fort outside Jaipur on Oct. 31 was followed by 25 at an irrigation pond at Pushkar on Nov. 2. On the following day 53 birds were counted at the same pond. At Gadi Sar Pond in Jaisalmer, 80 birds recorded on Jan. 29. Up to 5 birds noted on a small pond at Kanha National Park in March.

100. Pheasant-tailed Jacana - Seen only at Bharatpur in small groups away from the main tracks, e.g. a flock of 15 and another flock of 8 birds on Dec. 5.

101. Bronze-winged Jacana - Four birds at Bameira Dam, north of Tala, on Jan. 14. At Garpuri Dam, south of Tala, 6 birds were seen on Feb. 16. Occasionally seen at Badrashilla Lake, a small pond within Bandhavgarh National Park.

102. Small Pratincole - Up to three birds seen hawking insects along the Rapti River at Royal Chitwan National Park on Apr. 21.

103. Little Ringed Plover - A single bird flew over Gadi Sar Lake in Jaisalmer on Jan. 29. Several birds recorded along a short stretch of the Rapti River at Royal Chitwan National Park between Apr. 20-23.

104. Yellow-wattled Lapwing - A single bird found in an open area of grassland east of Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge on Feb. 2. Two birds seen in the eastern sector at Kanha National Park on Feb. 25 and 2 birds found in a field about 5 km south of Manjitola on Apr. 5.

105. Red-wattled Lapwing - Commonly seen on farmland and at both Bandhavgarh and Kanha National Parks.

106. White-tailed Lapwing - A single bird was found on a flooded field just outside Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary on Dec. 4. The only other birds seen were six at Gadi Sar Lake, on the outskirts of Jaisalmer, on Jan. 29.

107. River Lapwing - The only record was of one flying east over the Rapti River at Royal Chitwan National Park on Apr. 21. Two probables seen (from a bus) on a large expanse of shingle in a river near Mahendra-nagar in southwest Nepal on Apr. 28.

108. Brown-headed Gull - A sub-adult seen flying over the Ganges at Varanasi on Dec. 15.

109. Black-headed Gull - Five immature birds feeding along the Ganges River at Varanasi on Dec. 15 was the only record.

110. River Tern - First noted on flooded fields just south of Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary on Oct. 25 when a flock of 52 birds was recorded. Three birds seen on a lake below the Amber Fort near Jaipur on Oct. 31, and a further three seen at Pushkar on Nov. 3. Finally, two birds were seen at Bharatpur on Jan. 31.

111. Black-bellied Tern - One flying over flooded farmland near Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary on Oct. 25 was the first one seen. Another bird was at Bameira Dam, about 15 km north of Tala, on Jan. 14.

112. Osprey - One bird seen perched on a tree stump in the Rapti River beside Royal Chitwan National Park on Apr. 21.

113. Black-shouldered Kite - A single seen at Pushkar, Rajasthan State, on Nov. 11. Not recorded at Bandhavgarh until Jan. 10 when there appeared to be a small influx, and up to three birds seen around Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge over the next few days. Occasionally seen at Kanha Jungle Lodge. One noted mobbing a Crested Hawk Eagle at Kanha National Park.

114. Black Kite - Quite common in large cities like New Delhi, Agra and Varanasi, and often encountered in smaller towns and villages in the countryside. At Bandhavgarh and Kanha National Parks uncommon.

115. Lammergeier - An immature bird watched at close range soaring along a cliff face below the observation platform at Sarangkot, above Pokhara, on Apr. 17.

116. Egyptian Vulture - Eight birds recorded at the Taj Mahal on Dec. 4. Occasionally seen over Bandhavgarh and Kanha National Parks, with a max. of 3 around Bandhavgarh in Dec./Jan. At least 6 birds around McLeod-ganj on May 1.

117. White-rumped Vulture - The commonest Indian vulture, seen around most large cities and towns and also at Bandhavgarh and Kanha National Parks. Nests found in trees at Tala Village in December, in the desert southwest of Jaisalmer in January and at Kanha National Park in March.

118. Long-billed Vulture - Nests seen on cliff faces at Bandhavgarh National Park (2 sites) and below Jodhpur Fort in January. Uncommon at Kanha National Park.

119. Himalayan Griffon - Seen in good numbers around McLeod-ganj and also in the hills between Dalhousie and Khajiar. in late April.

120. Eurasian Griffon - A large roost of this species on the cliff face below Jodphur Fort on Jan. 24 contained about 50 birds.

121. Cinereous Vulture - Two birds were seen near Jodhpur Fort on Jan. 24 and two birds noted in the Thar Desert southwest of Jaisalmer on Jan. 28.

122. Red-headed Vulture - Occasionally seen at Bandhavgarh and Kanha National Parks, and a single seen near Gorwa Village, southwest of Jaisalmer, on Jan. 27.

123. Crested Serpent Eagle - Three birds over Bameira Dam, north of Tala, on Jan. 14. One or two seen on most days at Bandhavgarh National Park ad often seen circling over Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge. At Kanha National Park seen frequently around the Sondhar Tank area, where one or two birds were resident. A pair seen mating in a tree at Sondhar Tank on one occasion.

124. Black Eagle - A single adult seen over the forest at Bandhavgarh on Feb. 11.

125. Marsh Harrier - Two birds seen at Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary on Oct. 24. A female noted at Agra on Dec. 3.

126. Pied Harrier - A single male watched hunting over open meadow at Kanha on Mar. 28.

127. Pallid Harrier - A small, delicately built and very pale grey male harrier, almost certainly this species, seen flying through dunes near Sitorai village southwest of Jaisalmer on Jan. 28.

128. Shikra - Several small accipiters thought to be of this species seen at Bandhavgarh National Park between November-January, but not specifically identified until January. Seen also at Kanha National Park, where birds were seen displaying. A male watched catching grasshoppers in Kanha National Park on Mar. 11.

129. Eurasian Sparrowhawk - A female noted at Kanha National Park and a male seen there on Mar. 12.

130. Oriental Honey-Buzzard - Two birds seen on two dates at Mukki Gate at the entrance to Kanha National Park. The only other record was of a single bird flying over the Rapti River at Sauraha on Apr. 22.

131. White-eyed Buzzard - At Bandhavgarh National Park first recorded on Dec. 22 and seen occasionally thereafter. At Kanha National Park also scarce, and noted on only a handful of dates.

132. Common Buzzard - One bird recorded in the Thar Desert southwest of Jaisalmer on Jan. 26.

133. Greater Spotted Eagle - At Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary 2-3 birds seen in December and January.

134. Common Kestrel - Recorded occasionally at Bandhavgarh National Park, and one was seen over Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge on Jan. 3. Two birds noted in the Thar Desert on Jan. 26. Near Kanha Jungle Lodge a single bird seen on Apr. 2. At McLeod-ganj, a female noted on May 1.

135. Peregrine Falcon - Recorded only at Bandhavgarh National Park where up to two birds were seen during most visits to the fort on top of the plateau. Seen once over Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge and occasionally noted in other parts of the park. A female seen at the plateau on Dec. 30 had a curious, slow motion harrier-like flight. Birds were of the race Falco peregrinus peregrinator.

136. Little Grebe - At Bameira Dam, about 15 km. north of Tala, 10 birds seen on Jan. 14. Six birds seen on small tanks near Jodhpur Fort on Jan. 24. At Phewa Lake, Pokhara, a flock of about 60 birds noted on Apr. 16.

137. Darter - Several birds noted breeding at Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary in November, and single birds also noted at Garpuri Lake near Tala on a couple of occasions and at Bameira Dam, north of Tala, on Jan. 14. Not recorded at either Bandhavgarh or Kanha National Parks.

138. Little Cormorant - At Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary hundreds noted in December and January. At Kanha, a few birds seen either along the Banjar River or on the ponds inside Kanha National Park., although 50 birds were noted inside the park on Feb. 24.

139. Indian Shag - A single seen at Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary on Jan. 30. Although this species breeds in large numbers there, I only specificially identified one!

140. Great Cormorant - At Bandhavgarh National Park 19 birds recorded flying south on Nov. 10. Nearby, 15 birds were seen at Garpuri Dam, south of Tala, on Jan. 15. A few birds seen at Kanha National Park between early February-early April. Some were of the race P. c. sinensis.

141. Little Egret - A common bird all over India, and large numbers seen at Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary in December and January. Noted on ponds at both Bandhavgarh and Kanha National Parks.

142. Great Egret - Two birds seen at Gadi Sar Lake in Jaisalmer on Jan. 29. One bird recorded on the Rapti River at Sauraha on Apr. 20. Small numbers noted at Kanha National Park between early February-early April.

143. Intermediate Egret - Ten birds noted at Garpuri Dam, south of Tala, on Jan. 15. At Kanha National Park several birds seen around Sondhar Tanks on many dates.

144. Indian Pond Heron - A common bird seen at virtually every pond and stream. At Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary particularly abundant.

145. Purple Heron - Good numbers seen on all visits to Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary. Additionally, a single at Garpuri Dam, south of Tala, on Feb. 2.

146. Little Heron - A single bird seen at Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary on Jan. 31. At Kanha a single bird seen on nearby Banjar River on two occasions.

147. Black-crowned Night Heron - Birds occasionally heard flying over Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge at night, e.g. a single on Nov. 9 and two birds recorded on Dec. 1 and 24. This species had apparently not been recorded at Bandhavgarh before.

148. Black Ibis - Birds seen near Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge on several occasions, and birds noted at nearby Garpuri and Bameira Dams on three dates. At Kanha, a pair nested not far from Kanha Jungle Lodge, and birds were occasionally seen feeding along the Banjar River. Also noted in small numbers inside the park.

149. Black-headed Ibis - At Bharatpur two birds seen on Jan. 31.

150. Glossy Ibis - Two birds recorded at Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary on Dec. 5.

151. Eurasian Spoonbill - At Bharatpur large numbers breeding in October. Six birds (4 adults, 2 imm.) seen at Gadi Sar Lake on the southern outskirts of Jaisalmer on Jan. 30.

152. Great White Pelican - Recorded only at Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary where a flock of about 100 birds was seen on Jan. 31.

153. Painted Stork - Dozens of pairs noted nesting in trees close to the road at Bharatpur on Oct. 24. Also seen from the train between Umaria and New Delhi and Jabalpur and Varanasi.

154. Asian Openbill - Several birds noted at Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary in November and in February. Additionlly, two birds found feeding in the Rapti River at Sauraha on Apr. 20.

155. Woolly-necked Stork - At Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary 8 birds seen on Oct. 25. Two birds at Bameira Dam, 15 km north of Tala, on Jan. 14. A few birds seen occasionally at both Bandhavgarh and Kanha National Parks.

156. Black Stork - Five birds seen at Kanha National Park on Feb. 24 and a flock of 12 birds noted the following day.

157. Black-necked Stork - At Bharatpur several birds seen, and occupied nests seen in January.

158. Lesser Adjutant - Up to two birds seen occasionally at Bandhavgarh National Park, and 4 noted at Bameira Dam north of Tala on Jan. 14. At Royal Chitwan National Park a flock of 10 birds seen on Apr. 21.

159. Blue-winged Leafbird - Recorded at both Bandhavgarh and Kanha National Parks.

160. Golden-fronted Leafbird - Not specifically identified, but suspected, until Feb. 14 when one was seen at Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge. At least three present in trees at the lodge on Feb. 19. Seen infrequently at that site thereafter. At Kanha Jungle Lodge occasionally recorded, and also seen at Royal Chitwan National Park.

161. Brown Shrike - A single bird seen at Chakradhara Meadow inside Bandhavgarh National Park on several dates during the winter. Two birds recorded on Jan. 9 and 12. Also noted at Kanha National Park on a few occasions.

162. Long-tailed Shrike - Single birds seen at Bandhavgarh National Park and at Garpuri Dam, near Tala, on several dates during the winter. In Nepal, a bird of the race Lanius schach tricolor seen near Sarangkot on Apr. 16. Finally, a single bird seen at Khajjiar in Himachal Pradesh State on May 3.

163. Bay-backed Shrike - First recorded at Bandhavgarh on Dec. 10 when a bird was found in bushes east of the jungle lodge. Two birds recorded in the same area on Feb. 16 and single birds seen occasionally thereafter.

164. Southern Grey Shrike - A single bird noted in arable fields outside of Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary on Dec. 6. Several birds seen in the Thar Desert about 40 km. southwest of Jaisalmer between Jan. 26-28.

165. Eurasian Jay - At Khajjiar a single bird seen on May 3.

166. Black-headed Jay - Seen only at Dalhousie: Five birds were seen around The Mall on May 3 and a single on May 6.

167. Yellow-billed Blue Magpie - In the hills between Pokhara and Sarangkot 3 birds seen on Apr. 16, and a single was seen on Apr. 19 At McLeod-ganj, six birds seen in cedar forest on the way to Dall Lake on May 1, and 4 birds in the forest above the town the following day. At Dalhousie, a single seen on May 3, a single at Khajjiar on the same day, and finally two at Dalhousie on May 5 and 6.

168. Common Green Magpie - A few birds noted in the hills between Pokhara and Sarangkot on Apr. 17

169. Rufous Treepie - At both Bandhavgarh and Kanha National Parks frequently seen. Five birds recorded at Kanha National Park on Mar. 15.

170. Grey Treepie - Recorded only in the Pokhara/Sarangkot area in April, where up to 6 birds were seen in late April.

171. House Crow - A common species, abundant in some areas, but rare or absent in others. In contrast, rarely seen in Tala village or at Manjitola. One bird noted flying along the boundary of Bandhavgarh National Park on Jan. 12.

172. Large-billed Crow - Common or even abundant at several localities, such as Agra, New Delhi. No counts made.

173. Raven - A single bird seen at Jodhpur Fort on Jan. 24 and at Jaisalmer a maximum of 3 birds recorded, either in or close to the city, between Jan. 25-29. Four birds noted in the Thar Desert, about 40 km. southwest of Jaisalmer, on Jan. 28.

174. Ashy Woodswallow - Recorded only at Royal Chitwan National Park where 2 birds were seen on Apr. 22.

175. Eurasian Golden Oriole - At Kanha National Park a few birds seen between late February and early April, but scarcer than the following species. Four females noted on Mar. 21. At Royal Chitwan National Park several birds seen.

176. Black-hooded Oriole - Birds occasionally seen at Bandhavgarh National Park throughout the winter but much more noticeable at Kanha National Park from February onwards when small flocks of birds were seen in the forests. Four birds seen on Mar. 18.

177. Large Cuckooshrike - Up to five birds recorded almost daily at both Bandhavgarh and Kanha National Parks. At Manjitola a pair seen displaying high in a Sal tree in early April. Display included lots of purposeful wing flicking, reminiscent of a Dunnock.

178. Small Grey Cuckooshrike - A pair seen close to the entrance to Kanha National Park on Mar. 13. Subsequently, birds noted at Kanha Jungle Lodge and near Mukki village on Mar. 20 and 29 respectively. Apparently the first records for Kanha.

179. Small Minivet - First recorded close to the entrance of Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary on Oct. 25. Small flocks of up to 10 birds often encountered around both Bandhavgarh and Kanha Jungle Lodges and inside the parks. At Bandhavgarh 24 birds on Jan. 13 was the highest count.

180. Long-tailed Minivet - Recorded only in northern India and at Royal Chitwan National Park.

181. Scarlet Minivet - Only one record, of a single male, at Bandhavgarh National Park on Jan. 12 but seen frequently in the forests at Kanha National Park.

182. White-browed Fantail - Often seen at Bandhavgarh, both around Bandhavgarh National Park entrance and inside the park, and in nearby Tala village and environs. Not recorded at Kanha.

183. Black Drongo - A common species often associating with herds of cattle and to a lesser extent Spotted Deer or other wild animals. Noted flycatching from the backs of camels at Pushkar Camel Festival in early November.

184. Ashy Drongo - Two birds seen at Kanha National Park on Mar. 4.

185. White-bellied Drongo - Occasionally seen at Bandhavgarh and two birds noted at Kanha National Park on Mar. 14.

186. Hair-crested Drongo - At Kanha National Park first noted on Feb. 24. Several birds noted congregating in flowering Silk Cotton Trees in March.

187. Greater Racket-tailed Drongo - At Bandhavgarh National Park frequently seen in forested areas, and also regularly seen at Kanha National Park as well. Six birds seen at the latter site on Mar. 6.

188. Black-naped Monarch - First recorded on Mar. 2 at Kanha Jungle Lodge, and one seen inside Kanha National Park on Mar. 12.

189. Asian Paradise Flycatcher - First seen along the forest road east of Mukki Village on Mar. 29 and another bird was seen at the Banjar River between Manjitola and Mukki villages on Apr. 6. At Royal Chitwan National Park several birds seen -- including both brown phase and silver-grey phase males in breeding plumage -- between Apr. 20-23. A female seen at McLeod-ganj on May 1 and a grey male seen while travelling between Dharamsala and Dalhousie on May 2.

190. Common Iora - Recorded at both Bandhavgarh and Kanha National Parks and at Royal Chitwan National Park. Often seen in the early morning foraging in trees and bushes near to Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge.

191. Common Woodshrike - Often seen singly, in pairs or associating with mixed flocks of Indian White-eyes, Small Minivets and flycatchers near Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge or occasionally inside Bandhavgarh National Park. At Kanha National Park a single bird noted on Mar. 24.

192. Blue-capped Rock Thrush - At Kanha National Park two males were seen at Bamnidadar Plateau on Mar. 12, and a pair seen at the same place on Mar. 17. Five males seen in the vicinity of McLeod-ganj on May 1. Noted singing from telegraph wires or tops of cedar trees.

193. Blue Rock Thrush - A male seen on rocks in the Banjar River near Manjitola Village on Mar. 31.

194. Blue Whistling Thrush - Easily observed in the cedar forests and around human habitations at McLeod-ganj and Dalhousie in Himachal Pradesh State. Often seen perched on gravestones in the churchyard of St. John in the Wilderness at McLeod-ganj.

195. Orange-headed Thrush - Only two birds seen at Bandhavgarh National Park all winter but several seen (max. 6 in a day) at Kanha National Park.

196. Tickell's Thrush - At Bandhavgarh recorded in small numbers (less than 10 birds) throughout the winter. Not seen regularly, although birds were seen several times in the forest around Sesh Shayya at the base of Bandhavgarh Plateau. Six birds noted on Dec. 24 and Dec. 30. At Kanha Jungle Lodge two birds noted feeding between the dining room and the cabins on Feb. 2. The only other records are of a male found singing between McLeod-ganj and Dall Lake on May 1and another male heard singing at Dalhousie on .May 5.

197. Grey-winged Blackbird - Recorded only from Dalhousie. Two males seen on May 3, a two males and two females seen the following day and a pair of birds seen on May 5.

198. Red-throated Flycatcher - A common wintering species throughout India. A male seen on two or three occasions between Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge and Tala Village, but otherwise all female types.

199. Ultramarine Flycatcher - At Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge a male seen on Dec. 22 and another male was located in trees at a nearby stream on Jan. 15. A single male seen close to Kanha Jungle Lodge on Feb. 28. At McLeod-ganj several males heard singing in cedar forest Apr. 30 -May 2.

200. Verditer Flycatcher - Recorded on two or three occasions during the winter near Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge. At Dalhousie seen daily between May 3-5, with a max. of 7 birds on May 4 around The Mall.

201. Tickell's Blue Flycatcher - At Bandhavgarh National Park birds occasionally recorded during the winter months, and one or two seen around the jungle lodge as well. Also noted around Kanha Jungle Lodge.

202. Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher - Up to 2 birds wintered near Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge, and often seen in the upper canopy of mango trees near the entrance. Two birds seen in a forest above McLeod-ganj on May 1, and two more were seen between Dharamkot and Dall Lake, west of McLeod-ganj, the same day.

203. Bluethroat - At Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary 2 birds recorded on Jan. 31.

204. Oriental Magpie Robin - A fairly common resident in most parts, especially around human habitation. Six birds noted around Mukki/Manjitola on Mar. 13. A male singing on the roof of the Immigration Office at Sonauli on Apr. 10 was my first bird in Nepal.

205. White-rumped Shama - A single male seen at Kanha on Mar. 17 and birds were heard at Royal Chitwan National Park

206. Indian Robin - First recorded at Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary on Oct. 24. Birds often seen in bushes around Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge, and also at nearby Garpuri Dam. None recorded at Kanha National Park.

207. Black Redstart - A few birds wintered close to Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge, and 4 recorded in the vicinity on Jan. 7. Usually 1-2 birds seen daily.

208. Plumbeous Water Redstart - A pair displaying on boulders in a stream near Lakarmandi, east of Dalhousie, on May 4.

209. Common Stonechat - Widespread and seen in suitable habitat. Two birds, a male and a female, recorded at Bameira Dam north of Tala on Jan. 14.

210. White-tailed Stonechat - A male was seen beside the Rapti River at Sauraha on Apr. 20 and another male was seen the following day inside Royal Chitwan National Park.

211. Grey Bushchat - A couple of records from Bandhavgarh. At McLeod-ganj, a pair noted in the forest above the town on May 3. At Lakarmandi two males were singing from the tops of tall trees on May 3 and a single male was at "The Mall" in Dalhousie the following day.

212. Pied Bushchat - At Bandhavgarh and Kanha National Parks, noted in suitable habitat throughout the winter. A single male seen at Bameira Dam, 15 km north of Tala, on Jan. 14. Two pairs noted at Sarangkot, above Pokhara, on Apr. 16, and a pair with two recently fledged young recorded at Sauraha on Apr. 20. About 10 birds seen while travelling between Dharamsala and Dalhousie on May 1.

213. Brown Rock-chat - At Agra and Jaisalmer several birds noted in residential areas, and also seen at Amber Fort near Jaipur and at Jodphur Fort, where 3 birds were noted on Jan. 24.

214. Variable Wheatear - Recorded only in Rajasthan State: Two males in rocky terrain near Jodhpur Fort on Jan. 24, and birds were noted on the outskirts of Jaisalmer on Jan. 29. In the Thar Desert about 40 km southwest of Jaisalmer, 5 males were recorded on Jan. 27 and the following day 8 birds were seen.

215. Desert Wheatear - Recorded from around the Temara region in the Thar Desert on Jan. 25.

216. Rufous-tailed Wheatear - A single bird seen in scrubby area in the Thar Desert about 40 km. southwest of Jaisalmer on Jan. 26.

217. Common Starling - At Gadi Sar Lake in Jaisalmer, two flocks of birds totalling 36 seen flying overhead on Jan. 29.

218. Spot-winged Starling - At Royal Chitwan National Park a flock of 16 birds seen on Apr. 21.

219. White-faced Starling - Often seen at Kanha National Park, and birds seen taking nectar from flowers of the Silk Cotton Tree in March. Sixteen birds noted on Mar. 28.

220. Brahminy Starling - A widespread resident, seen at several different localities, but only in small numbers. Occasionally seen at Kanha, e.g. 2 birds noted on Apr. 5.

221. Asian Pied Starling - First seen at Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary on Oct. 24, when 16 were recorded. Around Bandhavgarh National Park a few birds seen during the winter period. At Kanha, a single seen near Manjitola on Apr. 5.

222. Common Myna - As the name suggests, common! Seen in virtually all places visited, but scarce in the desert areas in Rajasthan.

223. Bank Myna - A common resident and seen at several different localitie. No counts made.

224. Jungle Myna - Recorded only between Lower Dharamsala and Dalhousie on May 2

225. Hill Myna - Birds only recorded at Royal Chitwan National Park, where 3 were seen on Apr. 21.

226. Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch - Frequently seen around both Bandhavgarh and Kanha jungle lodges. At Kanha seen occasionally in company of Velvet-fronted Nuthatches and other forest species.

227. Velvet-fronted Nuthatch - First recorded at Kanha Jungle Lodge on Feb. 23, and often seen in nearby woodland areas. Not recorded at Bandhavgarh.

228. Spot-winged Tit - A pair found nesting in a stone bridge east of Lakarmandi on May 3, and another pair found nesting nearby. Six birds seen in coniferous trees between Lakarmandi and Dalhousie on the same date.

229. Great Tit - Recorded almost daily at both Bandhavgarh and Kanha National Parks.

230. Green-backed Tit - Several birds seen in forest around McLeod-ganj and Dalhousie in late April-early May.

231. White-naped Tit - A single bird seen in a grove of trees about 3 km east of Pushkar on Nov. 2.

232. Black-lored Tit - First seen south of Manjitola on Feb. 22. Frequently seen along the forest road west of Manjitola or east of Mukki.

233. Black-throated Tit - Small flocks seen at McLeod-ganj on Apr. 30, and also seen at Dalhousie and at nearby Khajjiar.

234. Plain Martin - First identified at Pushkar in November, and subsequently seen at several sites. Good numbers were found breeding in sandy banks beside the Rapti River at Royal Chitwan National Park in April.

235. Eurasian Crag Martin - Three or four birds noted at a single locality in the southwest sector of Bandhavgarh National Park on a few dates.

236. Dusky Crag Martin - Recorded fairly regularly at Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge and Bandhavgarh National Park. Eight birds recorded on Nov. 9 Eight birds noted at Jodphur Fort on Jan. 24.

237. Barn Swallow - Birds often recorded along rivers and at ponds and lakes at several locations. At Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary 10 birds noted on Dec. 4.

238. Wire-tailed Swallow - Two birds at Bameira Dam, 15 km north of Tala, on Jan. 14.

239. Red-rumped Swallow - Thirty-five birds hawking insects over open meadow in Kanha National Park on Feb. 27. A flock of 30+ birds seen at Kanha on Mar. 12 and 25 present the following day.

240. Northern House Martin - Ten birds recorded at Kanha National Park on Mar. 13 and occasionally seen over Kanha Jungle Lodge.

241. White-eared Bulbul - Seen only in Rajasthan State, and noted in Jaisalmer and surrounding areas in late January and also at Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary.

242. Himalayan Bulbul - Several birds seen while hiking in the hills around Pokhara/Sarangkot between Apr. 16-19.

243. Red-vented Bulbul - Common at both Bandhavgarh and Kanha National Parks.

244. Black Bulbul - At Dalhousie 4 birds seen on May 3 and 4.

245. Ashy Prinia - First recorded at Kanha Jungle Lodge on Feb. 27, and subsequently seen inside Kanha National Park.

246. Yellow-bellied Prinia - At Royal Chitwan National Park, two birds seen on Apr. 21

247. Zitting Cisticola - Recorded at both Bandhavgarh and Kanha National Parks. Three birds seen in Kanha National Park on Mar. 10. Also noted along the Rapti River at Sauraha on Apr. 21.

248. Blyth's Reed Warbler - One to three birds seen on most days at or close to Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge, and also recorded in the vicinity of Kanha Jungle Lodge. A single bird noted near Lakarmandi, east of Dalhousie, on May 3.

249. Great Reed Warbler - A bird thought to be of this species at Bameira Dam north of Tala on Jan. 15. Several birds seen at Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary in late January.

250. Lesser Whitethroat - A single bird noted at Bameira Dam, north of Tala, on Jan. 14. In Rajasthan State, two birds were found in scrub near Jodhpur Fort on Jan. 24.

251. Desert Warbler - Seen only in the Thar Desert southwest of Jaisalmer, Rajasthan State, where 2 birds were recorded on Jan. 28.

252. Orphean Warbler - Fairly common in rough vegetation in the Thar Desert in Rajasthan State in late January.

253. Common Tailorbird - Commonly seen at both Bandhavgarh and Kanha, and also at Royal Chitwan National Park.

254. Plain-leaf Warbler - A single bird seen close to Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge on Jan. 6.

255. Eastern Crowned Warbler - Several males singing in deodar forest around Lakarmandi on May 5.

256. Greenish Warbler - A common wintering species in India. Several were seen in the forest at Bandhavgarh and Kanha on most days, and also recorded at several other localities.

257. Grey-hooded Warbler - Several singing males in cedar forests around McLeod-ganj and near Dalhousie in late April-early May.

258. White-crested Laughingthrush - At Pokhara 6 birds seen on Apr. 16.

259. Greater Necklaced Laughingthrush - Seen in small numbers in the hills between Pokhara and Sarangkot in May.

260. Streaked Laughingthrush - Birds seen at Dalhousie, where eight birds were recorded on May 4.

261. Puff-throated Babbler - Two birds seen at Pokhara on Apr. 17.

262. Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler - Two birds seen near Pokhara on Apr. 19.

263. Indian Scimitar Babbler - A single seen in a bamboo stand at Kanha National Park on Mar. 17 and two birds seen in the hills below Sarangkot on Apr. 17.

264. Rufous-capped Babbler - A single seen at Kanha National Park on Apr. 5 and two birds seen at Royal Chitwan National Park on Apr. 21.

265. Black-chinned Babbler - In the hills between Pokhara and Sarangkot, 2 birds seen Apr. 17 and 3 birds seen the following day.

266. Spiny Babbler - Two birds seen while hiking into the hills between Pokhara and Sarangkot on Apr. 16 and 18. A Nepalese endemic.

267. Common Babbler - A small flock of about 10 birds was found in cultivated land close to the west side of Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary on Dec. 6, and a flock of 10 birds seen in sandy terrain on the western outskirts of Jaisalmer on Jan. 25. In the Thar Desert southwest of Jaisalmer, 6 birds recorded the following day.

268. Rufous-bellied Babbler - Three birds noted at Bandhavgarh National Park on Dec. 30.

269. Large Grey Babbler - First recorded at Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary on Oct. 24. None recorded at Bandhavgarh National Park. At Kanha Jungle Lodge two birds were seen on Feb. 21 and singles recorded the following day and on Mar. 15.

270. Jungle Babbler - A common bird, first identified at the Taj Mahal at Agra on Oct. 23. Seen in good numbers at both Bandhavgarh and Kanha National Parks, and around both jungle lodges.

271. Quaker Babbler - Two birds seen in the forest east of Mukki Village on Mar. 20.

272. White-browed Shrike Babbler - A single bird seen at The Mall in Dalhousie on May 3.

273. Rufous Sibia - A small flock containing 4 birds seen at Dharamkot, a village west of McLeod-ganj, on May 1. One was seen at The Mall in Dalhousie on May 4.

274. Rufous-winged Bushlark - Large flocks (estimated at up to 300 birds) seen in dry desert areas southwest of Jaisalmer in Rajasthan State. A few birds noted also on farmland near Tala village in Madhya Pradesh State.

275. Ashy-crowned Sparrow Lark - Two birds seen on the roadside behind Bharatpur Bird Sanctaury on Oct. 30, and small flocks encountered in the desert southwest of Jaisalmer in late January.

276. Crested Lark - A single bird noted on the roadside behind Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary on Dec. 6.

277. Rufous-tailed Lark - A male was singing from telegraph wires in farmland behind Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary on Dec. 6. Additionally, two birds were found in dried-up paddy fields about 2 km south of Manjitola on Mar. 14 and 15.

278. Thick-billed Flowerpecker - Seen almost daily at both Bandhavgarh and Kanha National Parks.

279. Fire-breasted Flowerpecker - A single male found in the churchyard at St. John in the Wilderness, 1 km west of McLeod-ganj, on Apr. 30.

280. Crimson Sunbird - A single male seen beside the trail in the hills above Pokhara on Apr. 17.

281. Purple Sunbird - First seen at Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary in October and then often seen at Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge feeding on bougainvillea or Flame of the Forest flowers. Three birds seen at Jodhpur Fort on Jan. 24.

282. Russet Sparrow - At McLeod-ganj, several birds found feeding beside the road on Apr. 30. A pair noted feeding young in a nesting hole in a tree beween McLeod-ganj and Lower Dharamsala on May 1, and breeding was also noted at Dalhousie.

283. House Sparrow - One noted at Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge on Dec. 10, and a male seen two days later. Both were presumably from the small population in nearby Tala village.

284. Yellow-throated Petronia - A common species at Bandhavgarh, where flocks of up to 40 birds were noted on several occasions.

285. White Wagtail - Frequently seen on small ponds at Bandhavgarh National Park, and occasionally recorded at Kanha National Park. A flock of 13 birds noted at Khajjiar on May 3.

286. White-browed Wagtail - First seen at the Taj Mahal at Agra on Oct. 23, and recorded in small numbers at several localities.

287. Citrine Wagtail - At Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary six birds seen on Dec. 4 and several birds seen in January. One or two birds noted at Kanha National Park in March.

288. Grey Wagtail - Often seen along forest streams and beside ponds at both Bandhavgarh and Kanha National Parks.

289. Richard's Pipit - Occasionally seen in open areas at Bandhavgarh National Park. Identified by call.

290. Upland Pipit - Two birds, including a singing male, seen on a ridge in the hills between Sarangkot and Pokhara on Apr. 17.

291. Olive-backed Pipit - Seen virtually daily, often in small flocks, at both Bandhavgarh National Park and Kanha National Park.

292. Indian Rock Pipit - Widespread, and often encountered in dry areas near cultivation. First noted at Pushkar in Rajasthan State. Up to half a dozen birds noted in the vicinity of Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge on several dates, and three birds seen on a rocky plateau a few km east of Tala on Jan. 14.

293. Red Avadavat - A male seen at Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary on Oct. 24, and a flock of 15 noted close to the Rapti River at Sauraha on Apr. 20.

294. White-rumped Munia - Birds seen on several occasions around Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge and Tala village.

295. Scaly-breasted Munia - Small groups of birds seen at Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge on several occasions.

296. Black-headed Munia - Occasionally seen in the fields around Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge.

297. Common Rosefinch - Birds noted coming into roost in an area of tall elephant grass at Chakradhara in Bandhavgarh National Park on several occasions during the winter.

298. Black-and-Yellow Grosbeak - A pair seen in cedar forest between Lakarmandi and Dalhousie on May 3, and two males and two females seen in the same area the following day.

299. Crested Bunting - A single male seen between Niwas and Jabalpur on Feb. 20, and two males seen in the hills between Dharamsala and Dalhousie on May 2. A pair found in the hills above Pokhara on Apr. 19.

300. Rock Bunting - A singing male located below Lakarmandi, east of Dalhousie, on May 4.

Mammals

1. Great Indian Rhinoceros - Seen only at Royal Chitwan National Park, where 9 animals, including females and young, were seen on Apr. 21.

2. Gaur - Often seen at Kanha, in family groups of up to about 10 animals. A female and a calf, estimated to be only 2-3 days old, seen crossing Bishanpura meadow at Kanha on Mar. 3. These animals, in the open, caused both Spotted Deer and Barasinga to utter alarm calls.

3. Tiger - At Bandhavgarh this species was seen on 35 drives out of 86 -- about a 40% sighting rate. At Kanha, seen on 11 drives out of 39. Four animals seen together at Bandhavgarh on Nov. 30, the most seen at any one time. A pair heard mating early in the morning at Bandhavgarh on Feb. 13.

4. Leopard - At Bandhavgarh a single animal seen running very fast across a forest road on Dec. 18. At Kanha, occasionally seen, i.e. one at Bamnidadar plateau during the late afternoon of Mar. 12, and another single that night on the road between Manjitola and Baihar. One seen in the morning near Sondhar Camp inside Kanha National Park on Apr. 4

5. Jungle Cat - Solitary animals seen only at Bandhavgarh, either inside the park or near the lodge: Jan 2, Jan. 10, Feb. 9 and Feb. 11.

6. Sloth Bear - Seen only three times at Bandhavgarh, including once at a distance of about 5 meters on Feb. 10. At Royal Chitwan National Park a single animal seen on Apr. 21.

7. Indian Wild Dog - Occasionally seen at Kanha, usually in small packs, but a single female seen on Mar. 17 and two seen together on Mar. 21. A pack killed a Spotted Deer near the park entrance on Apr. 1.

8. Striped Hyena - A single animal seen crossing the road between Manjitola and Baihar during the evening of Feb. 24. It was carrying prey (possibly a domestic dog).

9. Indian Jackal - Occasionally seen at both Bandhavgarh and Kanha, and heard calling several times at night near Tala Village/Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge.

10. Indian Fox - One or two animals occasionally seen around the lodge at Bandhavgarh or in open areas of the forest. Near Kanha Jungle Lodge, one was seen at night crossing the road south of Manjitola on Mar. 3.

11. Nilgai - Rarely seen at Bandhavgarh but a female and a young calf seen on Dec. 23 and 5 were recorded in the southwest sector on Jan. 8. In Rajasthan State, several seen from the bus between Jodphur and Jaipur on Jan. 30.

12. Sambar - Well distributed at both Bandhavgarh and Kanha National Parks and seen on most rides at both places, but not as common as Spotted Deer. After Spotted Deer this is another favoured prey of the tiger.

13. Spotted Deer - A common species at both Bandhavgarh and Kanha, and a favourite prey species for tiger. Young animals seen in December and January. At Bandhavgarh and Kanha the whistling alarm calls of this species were used to locate tigers and leopards.

14. Barasinga - Herds at Kanha seen either around Sondhar Tank or on the west side of Bishanpur Meadow. Small groups of adult males were seen away from these herds on a couple of occasions.

15. Chausinga - Two animals were seen in the eastern sector of Bandhavgarh National Park on Dec. 28 and another single was seen on Jan. 5.

16. Barking Deer - One or two seen on several dates at Bandhavgarh and Kanha and two seen at Royal Chitwan National Park on Apr. 21.

17. Wild Boar - Often seen in small groups at both Bandhavgarh and Kanha. At Kanha a male walked from beside the track into deeper forest near Duk Road only to exit at speed several seconds later, tail in air, as a female tiger walked out the same way!

18. Black-faced Langur - The common Indian monkey, sometimes seen in large troops. At both Bandhavgarh and Kanha the barking alarm calls of this species were used to locate tigers and leopards. At Dalhousie in Himachal Pradesh State, a troop of animals referable to the Himalayan race Semnopithecus entellus schistaceus seen along The Mall on May 2.

19. Rhesus Macaque - A troop resident for some weeks around the entrance at Bandhavgarh was frequently seen, but at Kanha just one seen on Mar. 25. A small group of 6 animals seen at Royal Chitwan National Park on Apr. 21.

20. Common Mongoose - A few records of this species at both Bandhavgarh and Kanha National Parks, e.g. one at Kanha on Mar. 27.

21. Ruddy Mongoose - Ruddy Mongooses were occasionally seen in forested areas at both Bandhavgarh and Kanha National Parks, e.g. a single at Bandhavgarh on Dec. 28 and Feb. 12, and two together at Kanha on Mar. 27.

22. Black-naped Hare - A few individuals seen at night on the road between Manjitola and Baihar, and a single animal seen once on a forest track inside Kanha National Park.

23. Indian Five-striped Squirrel

24. Indian Three-striped Squirrel

25. Fruit Bat - At Niwas, south of Umaria, a large flock containing about 50 bats was seen circling over the town at midday on Feb. 20. At first they were mistaken for soaring vultures! At Baihar, 13 km from Kanha Jungle Lodge, a dead specimen seen draped across electricity wires in the centre of the town on Feb. 22. In Katmandu, several seen flying west over Thamel at dusk between Apr. 10-14.

26. Gangetic Dolphin - Up to three seen in the Ganges at Varanasi in December, and presumably the same individuals at the same locality in April.

Reptiles

1. Marsh Mugger - One seen basking in the sun on a small tributary of the Rapti River, Royal Chitwan National Park, on Apr. 21, and another seen in a small stream close to Sauraha on Apr. 22.

Acknowledgements

Thanks to Mr. Pradeep Sankala for giving me the opportunity to be part of the jungle lodge teams for almost 6 months, and to the two lodge managers: Mr. Push Pinder Singh at Bandhavgarh and Mr. Tarun Bhati at Kanha. My thanks also to the two resident Indian naturalists at Bandhavgarh and Kanha for teaching me so much about Indian wildlife: Mr. Vivek Sharma and Mr. Faiyaz Khudsar.

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