Trip Report: Sumatra (Indonesia), April 5-16, 1998

Gunung Leuser National Park, April 4-9, 1998

Sumatra, a birders' paradise in Indonesia has lush rainforests, exotic fauna and flora, and sparkling rivers. With some 600 species, Sumatra is second only to Irian Jaya in the sheer variety of its birdlife. About three quarters of these birds are resident, though only 17 are endemic. Sadly, many species are endangered by clearing of land for settlement, logging and hunting, and some are now sighted only rarely.

Calls of the hornbills attract your attention with their noisy wingbeats and loud calls. Particularly spectacular is the Rhinoceros Hornbill Buceros rhinoceros. The male is 1.2 m long, with a huge reddish, upturned casque and loud honking call.

Another common call of the forest is the loud "ku-ow" of the great Argus Pheasant Argusianus argus. When its decorative wing and tail plumes are fully developed, the male pheasant reaches a length of nearly 2 m. Like so many secretive forest birds, you must be very fortunate to see it in the wild. I am still waiting!

If you are lucky enough to chance upon a fruiting fig tree, you may see a host of bulbuls and barbets -- all so intent on gorging themselves that they ignore the observer standing below in a shower of discarded fruit debris. Occasionally shattering the cathedral stillness of the noon-time forest, a flock of birds will sweep down upon you, excitedly searching for food. This "feeding party" ranges from woodpeckers, jays and trogons to drongos, bulbuls and babblers. After just a few minutes, the flock moves on, leaving the equally frenzied birdwatcher frantically trying to remember each species as the last bird departs.

We went to two main sites in Sumatra. We spent 4 days in Gunung Leuser National Park and 5 days in Kerinci-Seblat National Park. We were with Kath Shurcliff and David Houghton who presently reside in Jakarta, Indonesia. Kath and Dave spoke enough Indonesian to make the trip most enjoyable.

The book we used to tell us where best to go was Birding Indonesia. A birdwatchers' guide to the world's largest archipelago. by Paul Jepson published by Periplus. The book gave excellent outlines of areas to visit. The minute details came easily thanks to Kath mostly.

We flew in from Sydney to Jakarta and to Medan, the capital of Sumatra. Our airfare Sydney to Jakarta was Aus$910 return. Kath arranged our tickets to Medan which cost Aus$200 Jakarta-Medan-Padang-Jakarta. This was half the price quoted in Sydney. The gardens around Jakarta airport produced 4 lifers for me. Best airport in years!

We stayed at the Garuda Plaza Hotel who picked us up, and the next morning we were able to arrange a 4WD and driver to take us to the Cinta Alam at Gurah which lies at the southern main entrance of Gunung Leuser National Park immediately opposite the Ketambe Research Station, a distance of 35 km to the west of Kutacane, or about 250 km from Medan. All the details are in the Birding Indonesia although all prices quoted were incorrect understandably.

The drive took some 8 hours for 250,000 Rupiah. On the way the driver stopped for us at a few spots for us to bird. The best stop was at Berastagi. Good birds at a higher elevation. We gave the driver a generous tip and asked him to pick us up in 4 days time at 11am. He turned up an hour early. We found everybody to be very reliable.

Our accommodation, at Wisma Cinta Alam was just outside the National Park and is not mentioned in the Birding Indonesia book. It does have a home page on the Internet though. It was separate lodges close to the river which had disused rice fields on one side. Mr Ali's family looked after us, and we could even get cold beer. A tip... the food becomes even nicer if you pay a large amount up front say 200,000 Rupiah.

Where to bird. We walked into the National Park stopping at every sound, taping, playing back, and many good birds were seen from the road. There is a coffee shop called Silayar in the park so we would bird for 2 hours and have breakfast there. We also arranged a guide to show us Orang-utan and we were shown a lot of trails which we returned to the next day. The white building called Mushalla has a trail behind it leading to the best birding. We saw Orang-utan, White-handed Gibbon, Pig-tailed Macaque, lots of Long-tailed Macaque, Thomas' Leaf Monkey and many species of bird. (see list)

Like all rainforest birding what is seen two days running can vary, so this list indicates only what we saw, not what can be seen.

Bird List for Gunung Leuser National Park (Sumatra) -- April 5-9, 1998

Lowland Forest
Species Seen: 62 (F = life bird, numbers refer to program BirdBase)

1. F Oriental Honey-buzzard -- Pernis ptilorhynchus -- 13 03 012
   2 soaring over river
2. Black Eagle -- Ictinaetus malayensis -- 13 03 205
   2
3. F Wallace's Hawk-Eagle -- Spizaetus nanus -- 13 03 233
   Feeding single chick on nest
4. White-breasted Waterhen -- Amaurornis phoenicurus -- 15 02 080
   1 flushed by creek bed
5. Common Sandpiper -- Tringa hypoleucos -- 16 03 050
   seen regularly along river
6. Little Cuckoo-Dove -- Macropygia ruficeps -- 19 01 075
   4
7. Raffles' Malkoha -- Phaenicophaeus chlorophaeus -- 23 01 061
   3
8. F Red-billed Malkoha -- Phaenicophaeus javanicus -- 23 01 062
   3
9. F Zebra Dove -- Geopelia striata -- 19 01
   1 flushed from road on the way to Gunung Leuser NP
10. Greater Coucal -- Centropus sinensis -- 23 02 012
    1 flushed in creek bed grasses
11. Gray-rumped Treeswift -- Hemiprocne longipennis -- 26 01 002
    2 in trees by dry creek bed
12. Silver-rumped Needletail -- Rhaphidura leucopygialis -- 26 02 055
    several over river an hour before dusk
13. House Swift -- Apus nipalensis -- 26 02 096
    seen over river in late afternoon
14. F Diard's Trogon -- Harpactes diardii -- 28 01 032
    Male in telescope in forest
15. Rufous-backed Kingfisher -- Ceyx rufidorsa -- 29 01 020
    1 by small creek in forest near track entrance
16. Blue-throated Bee-eater -- Merops viridis -- 29 04 017
    1 in telescope in trees above dry creek bed
17. Rhinoceros Hornbill -- Buceros rhinoceros -- 29 10 024
    Seen and heard daily. Seen in telescope
18. Red-throated Barbet -- Megalaima mystacophanos -- 30 03 011
    2 seen in fruiting trees by the river
19. Blue-eared Barbet -- Megalaima australis -- 30 03 022
    2 seen in telescope in fruiting trees
20. Coppersmith Barbet -- Megalaima haemacephala -- 30 03 025
    Heard continuously and seen in telescope in trees beside dry creek bed
21. F Orange-backed Woodpecker -- Reinwardtipicus validus -- 30 08 204
    seen on two occasions
22. Green Broadbill -- Calyptomena viridis -- 31 03 012
    Pair with feeding flock
23. Black-naped Monarch -- Hypothymis azurea -- 31 29 056
    2 seen in telescope
24. F Sumatran Drongo -- Dicrurus sumatranus
    Seen feeding 2 young in a nest in tree beside river
25. Common Iora -- Aegithina tiphia -- 31 36 001
    4
26. Green Iora -- Aegithina viridissima -- 31 36 003
    3
27. Black-winged Flycatcher-shrike -- Hemipus hirundinaceus -- 31 38 082
    2 seen several heard
28. F Greater Green Leafbird -- Chloropsis sonnerati -- 31 39 005
    1 seen in telescope
29. Blue-winged Leafbird -- Chloropsis cochinchinensis -- 31 39 007
    seen on 3 occasions
30. F Tiger Shrike -- Lanius tigrinus -- 31 41 001
    1 juvenile in telescope, in clearing
31. Brown Shrike -- Lanius cristatus -- 31 41 005
    1 in cleared land at forest edge
32. F Fulvous-chested Jungle-Flycatcher -- Rhinomyias olivacea -- 31 50 020
    1
33. F Gray-chested Jungle-Flycatcher -- Rhinomyias umbratilis -- 31 50 021
    1
34. Dark-sided Flycatcher -- Muscicapa sibirica -- 31 50 031
    1
35. Chestnut-naped Forktail -- Enicurus ruficapillus -- 31 50 209
    2 in different streams in forest
36. Pacific Swallow -- Hirundo tahitica -- 31 56 046
    2 over clearing
37. Black-headed Bulbul -- Pycnonotus atriceps -- 31 58 009
    2
38. Puff-backed Bulbul -- Pycnonotus eutilotus -- 31 58 025
    4
39. Yellow-vented Bulbul -- Pycnonotus goiavier -- 31 58 034
    common in clearing
40. Cream-vented Bulbul -- Pycnonotus simplex -- 31 58 037
    seen on two occasions, once in telescope
41. Red-eyed Bulbul -- Pycnonotus brunneus -- 31 58 038
    2 seen twice
42. F Spectacled Bulbul -- Pycnonotus erythropthalmos -- 31 58 039
    seen on 4 occasions, once in telescope
43. Yellow-bellied Bulbul -- Alophoixus phaeocephalus -- 31 58 103
    seen on two occasions
44. Hairy-backed Bulbul -- Tricholestes criniger -- 31 58 106
    2 birds seen on 1 occasion
45. F Yellow-bellied Prinia -- Prinia flaviventris -- 31 61 065
    several heard, one seen well in long grasses beside dry creek bed
46. Arctic Warbler -- Phylloscopus borealis -- 31 62 186
    single birds seen on four occasions with feeding flocks
47. Abbott's Babbler -- Malacocincla abbotti -- 31 63 061
    3 in one flock
48. F Moustached Babbler -- Malacopteron magnirostre -- 31 63 074
    2 seen with other babblers on one occasion
49. Scaly-crowned Babbler -- Malacopteron cinereum -- 31 63 076
    2 seen, one well
50. F Gray-headed Babbler -- Stachyris poliocephala -- 31 63 148
    seen on a few occasions
51. Striped Tit-Babbler -- Macronous gularis -- 31 63 159
    2 seen twice
52. White-rumped Munia -- Lonchura striata -- 31 71 105
    4
53. Forest Wagtail -- Dendronanthus indicus -- 31 72 001
    1 bird seen on two occasions
54. Yellow Wagtail -- Motacilla flava -- 31 72
    1 seen with telescope in rice fields on the way to park
55. Yellow-breasted Flowerpecker -- Prionochilus maculatus -- 31 76 002
    3
56. Crimson-breasted Flowerpecker -- Prionochilus percussus -- 31 76 003
    seen the most of the flowerpeckers
57. F Orange-bellied Flowerpecker -- Dicaeum trigonostigma -- 31 76 022
    3 seen, more glimpsed
58. F Plain Sunbird -- Anthreptes simplex -- 31 77 005
    seen in the same little gully every day
59. F Purple-naped Sunbird -- Hypogramma hypogrammicum -- 31 77 020
    2
60. Olive-backed Sunbird -- Nectarinia jugularis -- 31 77 048
    1
61. Little Spiderhunter -- Arachnothera longirostra -- 31 77 114
    1 seen, several heard
62. F White-headed Munia -- Lonchura maja -- 31 71 117
    2

Bird List for Berestagi Waterfall -- April 9, 1998

Species Seen: 14
2 hours birdwatching

1. F Rusty-breasted Cuckoo -- Cacomantis sepulcralis -- 23 01 026
   2 seen in poor light. Eventually in the telescope.
2. Dollarbird -- Eurystomus orientalis -- 29 05 011
   1
3. F Wrinkled Hornbill -- Aceros corrugatus -- 29 10 038
   2 flew across road
4. Fire-tufted Barbet -- Psilopogon pyrolophus -- 30 03 001
   1 juvenile
5. F Black-browed Barbet -- Megalaima oorti -- 30 03 015
   1 in telescope
6. F Shiny Whistling-Thrush -- Myiophonus melanurus -- 31 47 020
   1 taped in and seen well
7. F Blue Nuthatch -- Sitta azurea -- 31 51 022
   2
8. Gray-cheeked Bulbul -- Alophoixus bres -- 31 58 102
   1
9. F Mountain White-eye -- Zosterops montanus -- 31 59 031
   2
10. Arctic Warbler -- Phylloscopus borealis -- 31 62 186
    2 in telescope
11. Pygmy Wren-Babbler -- Pnoepyga pusilla -- 31 63 117
    calling
12. Gray-throated Babble -- Stachyris nigriceps -- 31 63 147
    2
13. White-browed Shrike-Babbler -- Pteruthius flaviscapis -- 31 63 205
    2
14. Great Tit -- Parus major -- 31 67 037
    2

Kerinci-Seblat National Park, April 11-16, 1998

We flew to Padang from Medan, Sumatra, and stayed at accommodation mentioned in the Lonely Planet guide. It was Wisma Mayang Sari, and around the roof of the bank opposite a Savannah Nightjar can be seen at dusk. We were visited by our drivers for the next journey who spoke perfect English and were used to taking birdwatchers to Kerinci. One of the drivers, Jimmy, (Djamilis Djamin) gave us his card with the following contact numbers: Jalan Tanlung Karang Block C 12 Siteba Padang 25146 Sumatera Barat Phone (0751) 41439 Fax, (0751) 53845. Not only did we have a very good trip but he was able to instruct other drivers to return us to Padang via the coast and via Mauro Sako, 49 km south of Keresik Tua. Jimmy also has great T-shirts with Schneider's Pitta on them (25000 Rupiah).

Hill forests can be the best birdwatching regions. Many are accessible, the climate is comfortable, and the birds are less secretive. Here you will hear the rapid, three-note call of the Black-browed Barbet Megalaima oorti and the curious buzzing note of the Fire-tufted Barbet Psilopogon pyrolophus chlorolophus, or glimpse a vocal but secretive Wren-babbler. The Bronze-tailed Peacock Pheasant Polyplectron chalcurum and the Salvadori's Pheasant Lophura inornata are endemic to the mountains of Sumatra.

For Kerinci we stayed at Homestay Keluarga Subandi in Keresik Tua. Accommodation was very cheap, food excellent, the owner, Pak Subandi, arranged for motorbikes to pick us up at 6.30am after we'd had breakfast. The bikes cost us $1 per person each day but it was worth it to be in the forest early. There is a shop next door where lunch provisions can be bought.

The view at dawn of the volcano free from cloud, rising out of the tea plantations and covered in dense rainforest is breathtaking. There is an important book at Homestay Keluarga Subandi where birders write up what they saw and draw excellent maps of exact localities. This was a great help to us, and although we did not see Schneider's Pitta, we were able to go to the areas where they had been seen. The bird did not call at all. Some people saw them often. There was mention in the book of a valley where even more could be seen if you dipped.

We birded probably only the first 2 km maybe 3 into the forest and certainly did not feel the need to go further. There were plenty of birds. Interestingly all of us had been in rainforest throughout the world and commented on how fantastic this rainforest was. It was amazingly beautiful to move through, no leeches, no bities, just great birds. For the five days we were there, we almost had five different lists of birds. We slid down a few steep banks into a dry river a couple of times, and one led us to the top of a waterfall which gave us a view over the rainforest canopy. Best mammals here were Black Gibbon, and Striped Leaf Monkey.

Going in the minibus from Padang, a compulsory stop was the Letter W Waterfall. We went back on our last afternoon and spent two hours and saw more good birds. The last evening we stayed at the Aroma Hotel at Sungai Penuh to give us an early start at Mauro Sako. This was where our driver left us when we struck good rainforest and let us meander down the road birdwatching, then he picked us up at the bottom.

On the journey back to Padang we had a puncture about 94 km south. No problem, while our driver fixed it I saw 5 lifers in the rice fields around.

Bird List for Kerinci-Seblat National Park -- April 12, 1998

1. Black-shouldered Kite -- Elanus caeruleus -- 13 03 017
   1 seen daily over tea plantation
2. Black Eagle -- Ictinaetus malayensis -- 13 03 205
   1 in telescope
3. F Oriental Hobby -- Falco severus -- 13 05 050
   1 feeding dependent young in trees along dry creek bed
4. F Salvadori's Pheasant -- Lophura inornata -- 14 04 127
   One pair seen on 2 occasions near the base shelter
5. F Bronze-tailed Peacock-Pheasant -- Polyplectron chalcurum -- 14 04 146
   1 bird seen at the start of the forest track
6. White-breasted Waterhen -- Amaurornis phoenicurus -- 15 02 080
   1 in tea plantation
7. F Barred Cuckoo-Dove -- Macropygia unchall -- 19 01 068
   Seen once, heard all day in forest
8. F Blue-tailed Trogon -- Harpactes reinwardtii -- 28 01 029
   1
9. F Wreathed Hornbill -- Aceros undulatus -- 29 10 042
   2
10. F Maroon Woodpecker -- Blythipicus rubiginosus -- 30 08 202
    1 feeding at the top of the tree in poor light
11. Ashy Drongo -- Dicrurus leucophaeus -- 31 30 011
    2 in trees over gorge
12. Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo -- Dicrurus remifer -- 31 30 015
    Seen on two occasions with feeding flocks. Often the most vocal in the group
13. Green Magpie -- Cissa chinensis -- 31 31 048
    Often along the early section of the forest track
14. F Sunda Treepie -- Dendrocitta occipitalis -- 31 31 053
    1 flew across gorge above creek. Stunning sight
15. White-breasted Woodswallow -- Artamus leucorynchus -- 31 33 002
    At dusk, flying over the tea plantations
16. Gray-chinned Minivet -- Pericrocotus solaris -- 31 38 076
    Stunning views of males and females on 3 occasions
17. F Sunda Minivet -- Pericrocotus miniatus -- 31 38 079
    Stunning views on two occasions
18. White-throated Fantail -- Rhipidura albicollis -- 31 29 006
    seen daily
19. Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike -- Hemipus picatus -- 31 38 081
    2
20. Long-tailed Shrik -- Lanius schach -- 31 41 010
    common in tea plantation
21. F Sunda Whistling-Thrush -- Myiophonus glaucinus -- 31 47 021
    2 birds seen on two occasions, each responding to a tape and squeaking.
22. Lesser Shortwing -- Brachypteryx leucophrys -- 31 47 168
    Bird responded to taping. Excellent views.
23. F White-browed Shortwing -- Brachypteryx montana -- 31 47 169
    Pair came into tape of its call. One bird seemed to "flash" its brow in response to the tape.
24. F Mugimaki Flycatcher -- Ficedula mugimaki -- 31 50 060
    2 or 3 birds in trees at the forest edge.
25. F Snowy-browed Flycatcher -- Ficedula hyperythra -- 31 50 067
    Seen every day, sometimes close to the ground inside the forest.
26. Little Pied Flycatcher -- Ficedula westermanni -- 31 50 077
    Pair of birds near small dry waterfall. Female bathed in small pool 2 metres from us.
27. F White-tailed Blue-Flycatcher -- Cyornis concretus -- 31 50 098
    2 male birds in the same trees above a creek. Excellent views in the telescope
28. Pygmy Blue-Flycatcher -- Muscicapella hodgsoni -- 31 50 114
    1 male seen in poor light
29. Blue Nuthatch -- Sitta azurea -- 31 51 022
    seen regularly, often in mixed flocks
30. Barn Swallow -- Hirundo rustica -- 31 56 040
    Seen flying over the tea plantations
31. F Asian Martin -- Delichon dasypus -- 31 56 075
    Over plots near forest edge
32. F Sunda Bulbul -- Hypsipetes virescens -- 31 58 121
    1
33. F Black-capped White-eye -- Zosterops atricapillus -- 31 59 028
    3 seen on separate occasions above the base shelter, in mixed flocks
34. F Hill Prinia -- Prinia atrogularis -- 31 61 057
    Common in the tea plantation and bamboo along the forest entrance.
35. F Sunda Bush-Warblrer -- Cettia vulcania -- 31 62 018
    common in mixed flocks.
36. Mountain Tailorbird -- Orthotomus cuculatus -- 31 62 112
    2 at start of forest track
37. F Mountain Leaf-Warbler -- Phylloscopus trivirgatus -- 31 62 202
    2
38. F Sunda Warbler -- Seicercus grammiceps -- 31 62 214
    common in mixed flocks.
39. F Sunda Laughingthrush -- Garrulax palliatus -- 31 63 003
    3 birds
40. Chestnut-capped Laughingthrush -- Garrulax mitratus -- 31 63 032
    2 seen on 2 days
41. F Rusty-breasted Wren-Babbler -- Napothera rufipectus -- 31 63 108
    2 birds taped in
42. Eyebrowed Wren-Babbler -- Napothera epilepidota -- 31 63 115
    1 taped in
43. Pygmy Wren-Babbler -- Pnoepyga pusilla -- 31 63 117
    Seen building a nest at the base shelter
44. Golden Babbler -- Stachyris chrysaea -- 31 63 134
    common
45. Gray-throated Babbler -- Stachyris nigriceps -- 31 63 147
    common
46. F Spot-necked Babbler -- Stachyris striolata -- 31 63 150
    I saw one, Kath and Dave saw more
47. Silver-eared Mesia -- Leiothrix argentauris -- 31 63 201
    1 in mixed flock
48. Great Tit -- Parus major -- 31 67 037
    Seen in tree tops in mixed flocks
49. Long-tailed Sibia -- Heterophasia picaoides -- 31 63 250
    3 birds on 2 days
50. Fire-breasted Flowerpecker -- Dicaeum ignipectus -- 31 76 038
    2
51. White-headed Munia -- Lonchura maja -- 31 71 117
    3 seen in tea plantation
52. F Temminck's Sunbird -- Aethopyga temminckii -- 31 77 112
    2 females.

Bird List for Letter W Waterfall -- April 11, 1998

Species Seen: 8

1. F Ashy Drongo -- Dicrurus leucophaeus -- 31 30 011
   2
2. Bar-bellied Cuckoo-shrike -- Coracina striata -- 31 38 013
   1
3. F Blue-masked Leafbird -- Chloropsis venusta -- 31 39 010
   1, lousy view
4. F Asian Brown Flycatcher -- Muscicapa dauurica -- 31 50 032
   1
5. F Indigo Flycatcher -- Euymias indigo -- 31 50 088
   1
6. F Oriental White-eye -- Zosterops palpebrosus -- 31 59 021
   2
7. F Sunda Forktail -- Enicurus velatus -- 31 50 208
   1 viewed in telescope
8. Large Niltava -- Niltava grandis -- 31 50 089
   pair
9. Temminck's Sunbird -- Aethopyga temminckii -- 31 77 112
   Stunning male seen 3 times

Bird List for Mauro Sako -- April 16, 1998

Species Seen: 15

1. Blue-tailed Trogon -- Harpactes reinwardtii -- 28 01 029
   Excellent views of a male
2. Red-throated Barbet -- Megalaima mystacophanos -- 30 03 011
   1 in telescope
3. Ashy Drongo -- Dicrurus leucophaeus -- 31 30 011
   2
4. Sunda Treepie -- Dendrocitta occipitalis -- 31 31 053
   3 birds in trees beside the road
5. Black-and-crimson Oriole -- Oriolus cruentus -- 31 37 025
   1 in trees beside road
6. Gray-chinned Minivet -- Pericrocotus solaris -- 31 38 076
   Male in telescope
7. Pacific Swallow -- Hirundo tahitica -- 31 56 046
   3
8. F Cream-striped Bulbul -- Pycnonotus leucogrammicus -- 31 58 005
   1 in the telescope for some time
9. Oriental White-eye -- Zosterops palpebrosus -- 31 59 021
   2
10. F Ashy Tailorbird -- Orthotomus ruficeps -- 31 62 120
    1
11. Yellow-bellied Warbler -- Abroscopus superciliaris -- 31 62 218
    1
12. Chestnut-capped Laughingthrush -- Garrulax mitratus -- 31 63 032
    3
13. Golden Babbler -- Stachyris chrysaea -- 31 63 134
    2
14. Long-tailed Sibia -- Heterophasia picaoides -- 31 63 250
    3
15. F Golden-fronted Leafbird -- Chloropsis aurifrons -- 31 39 008
    1 in telescope at close range.

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