Trip Report: Madagascar, August 2-31, 1995

Introduction

The following report relates to a trip done by John Cooper, Richard Fairbank, Nick Preston and Barry Stidolph. Barry arrived in Madagascar two days before the rest of us and left a day earlier. His earlier arrival enabled him to start negotiations with tour firms. Another British group (Jeff Blincow, Nigel Goodgame and Mark Piper) were in Madagascar at the same time (we all went out and back on the same Aeroflot flights). We organised our trip on arrival with Aventour (who never replied to faxes or letters sent), getting just over 3 weeks of saloon car and driver plus 3 internal flights for approx. UK £650 each (rather expensive). The Aeroflot flight cost approx. UK £500 and we spent another UK £250 each on food, petrol, accommodation, guides and boat hire. The other group had a more deluxe tour and made internal arrangements in advance through Madagascar Airtours, paying approx. UK £1500 more or less all in plus the Aeroflot flights. They visited all the same sites and had a 4WD vehicle, driver and courier. Their trip was significantly more expensive than ours but they did see more birds than we did, in particular they were able to spend longer at Ambanizana, our options there being restricted by reduced flight availability.

Birding in Madagascar is brilliant. The reserves are good with good systems of trails and excellent and very knowledgeable English-speaking bird guides. The accommodation basic (camping the only real option in some places) and the roads bad, although we got everywhere we wanted in a saloon car (fairly cosy for 4 + driver).

Car hire

We felt we were being ripped off for the car hire (4,000 French Francs a week for an old Renault 20). The driver, Terry, was part of the package, although it transpired that it was Terry's car and Aventour were subcontractors. We paid petrol and he paid for his food/accommodation although we fed him fairly regularly ourselves. We felt if we'd had time we could have done better by arranging a 'private' charter with a taxi driver. The car was fine for driver plus four of us and luggage which was our main concern and we managed to get everywhere apart from Mora Mora where our driver took us two at a time. Terry was not the most reliable person, his concept of time being quite different from ours. Having said that he was a good driver and we had no major hassles. We dismissed him early in Toliara when it became obvious there was no benefit in keeping him on (it would have been a smart move to have done this when we first arrived there and chartered taxis) and after a prolonged argument back at Aventour got a reasonable reduction on the bill (which fortunately we'd not paid in full up front). Had we the time to use public transport we could have done the trip for very much cheaper, although seeing some of the overcrowded buses it would have been with very little comfort!

Guides

We thought the guides were excellent and, although we probably paid over the odds for them, good value. They certainly got more from us than they did from the other group's courier, and seemed keener because of it. We paid Patrice at Perinet about £10 a day between us (which included bonuses on respective days for Short-legged GR, Rufous-headed GR and Red-breasted Coua). He told us UK £8 was the rate for a full day and the parks notice that said it was UK £3 was out of date! Fidi at Ranomafana we paid UK £50 in total for showing us just about everything in 4 days. Mosa & co. we paid UK £4 each per day (morning and evening) in the spiny forest at Ifaty. Charles at Ampijoroa we paid UK £15 for 3 days and Augustine (who was not a bird guide) we paid UK £4 per day for organizing our trip to Ambanizana and showing us the forest trails there. It was unfortunate that we only learned there was a bird guide in Maroantsetra (Patrice's brother) who might have been able to show us a few more things there after we had left, although the other group used him and were not greatly impressed (but did get shown the Serpent Eagle). Patrice had his own tapes and was very proficient in their use (none of our customary fumbling trying to find the right place). All guides found us before we could find them and all spoke good English.

Accommodation

Hotels were variable but often quite basic, a double room, or two person chalet averaging about UK £6 a night. Food was equally cheap (and surprisingly good), getting a good meal in most places for UK £2. We had to camp at Ampijoroa and Ambanizana. At Ampijoroa there was a very basic cafe a short drive from the campsite but no worthwhile shops at all. We took our own food with us to Ambanizana where a local woman cooked for us, supplementing it with some of our own. We later learned that there was a chalet at Ambanizana that we could have got the use of through Hotel Coco Beach.

Main sites visited

• Ambanizana. A remote rainforest site on Masoala Peninsula in north-east Madagascar. Can be very wet. Logistically difficult but the only place where several species might be encountered (e.g. Helmet Vanga). Access is by boat from Maroantsetera (regular but not frequent flights from Tana). The boat journey can be arranged through Hotel Coco Beach. It takes 3-4 hours, although when the full moon makes tides stronger it can not go. The boat we had contained no safety equipment at all and I found the journeys quite worrying. We were told there was no accommodation at Ambanizana and camped but later found out the use of a hut could be arranged through Hotel Coco Beach in Maroantsetra. Take food with you (and hope a woman in the local village might cook it)! Only one, very steep (and muddy) trail into forest. Take a bird guide if you can and allow 4-5 days to find most birds.
• Ampijoroa. A dry forest site in north west Madagascar reached by road from Ambanizana (10 hrs) or Mahjunga (2-3 hrs). The road from Tana is very spectacular, over the spine of the country, but dirt in many places. There is no accommodation at Ampijoroa (although it may be possible to stay in the warden's house) and the only shop in the local village did not appear to sell anything edible! Take food and tents (there is a camping area near the Administration). There are excellent trails in dry forest around the northern end of the lake and on the plateau to the west of the Administration. The small lake beside the main road c20 kms to north should be visited for Mad. Jacana and other wetland species. There is very little overlap between the birds at Ampijoroa and in the eastern rainforests so visit this area if you can. 2-3 days should be ample to see the specialities.
• Ifaty (Mora Mora). Area of dry spiny forest on coast c20 kms north of Toliara. Habitat is rapidly becoming degraded and is possibly the most threatened in Madagascar. The only site for Long-tailed Ground Roller and Sub-desert Mesite. Both species are very very hard to find without a guide, although Mosa has no problem. One day with Mosa would be sufficient, at least a week might be needed without him. There are several rather run down beach hotels in this area. The road from Toliara is very bad (large areas of sand) and almost impassable by car. The area of slat pans south of Ifaty is a good site for Madagascar Plover.
• La Mangrove. Area of coastal rag (scrub) 10-15 kms south of Toliara. A good chalet-style hotel at La Mangrove from where a boat to Noisy Ve (Red-tailed Tropicbird) and Anakao (Littoral Rock Thrush) can be arranged. Verreaux's Couas are easiest along the road 1-3 kms south of the hotel.
• Perinet. A superb rain forest site (so can be very wet). About 120 kms east of Antananarivo (Tana) and readily reached by a good road (2-3 hrs by car) or by train. Chalet accommodation available, though sometimes quite full as all visitors to Madagascar are likely to visit this site. Excellent for rainforest species and lemurs. Patrice or his brother Maurice are easily the best bird guides and have their own tapes. Guides told us visitors were not allowed in the forest without a guide, though this may have been a ruse on their part. The trails are very good and easy to follow. In any event we were very pleased to have Patrice with us. Also visit nearby Maromiza (slightly higher altitude so birds slightly different), Patrice knows where it is. Ideally spend 3-4 days here.
• Ranomafana/Vohiparara. A superb rain forest site (again can be very wet) with birds much as Perinet, though several are easier to see here (e.g. Pitta-like Ground Roller & Brown Mesite but no Nuthatch Vanga). Only viably reached by car from Tana (8-9 hrs with the last part of the road being poor). Accommodation much as for Perinet. Fidi is the best guide. Again access to the forest is apparently not allowed without a guide though trails are even better laid out at Ranomafana (with very regular distance markers). Ideally spend 4-5 days here and visit the reservoir near the road 10-15 kms to northwest of Vohiparara.
• Zombitse. Rapidly shrinking forest on main road 2-3 hrs north of Toliara. Only site for Appert's Greenbul (actually a rather nice bird) and several other southern species not found in coastal forest round Toliara. All species should be seen in a day, though would need to stay to dark for White-browed Owl.

Itinerary

1 Aug.

Flew Aeroflot Heathrow to Moscow.

2 Aug.

Flew Aeroflot Moscow to Antananarivo with stops in Gulf and at Mahe (where White-tailed Tropicbirds above the terminal building got the trip off to a brilliant start). Arrived Tana mid afternoon, met by Barry Stidolph and went to Aventour to sort out travel arrangements. Decided to include a visit to Ambanizana for Helmet Vanga (at Barry's insistence), flight availability allowed either 2 or 6 days there (4 would have been ideal), opted for former. Hired car and driver (Renault 20 and Terry). Drove to Perinet as getting dark. Stayed at Hotel Fion Nyala.

3 Aug.

All day at Perinet, guided by Patrice. 41 species seen. Highlights were brilliant views of Short- legged Ground Roller, 6 Vangas, first Cuckoo Roller and only Red-fronted Coua, Mad. Little Grebe and Dark Newtonias of trip. Night at Hotel de la Gare (Nyala was better, but full)

4 Aug.

Morning at Maromiza, afternoon at marshes 16km east of Moramanga (only hearing Mad. Rail) and evening at Perinet in rain, all guided by Patrice. 45 species seen. Highlights were brilliant views of Rufous-headed Ground Roller, male Velvet Asity, Brown Emutail and Forest Rock Thrush (all at Maromiza). Frustratingly nearly trod on calling flufftail without seeing it. Night at Hotel de la Gare.

5 Aug.

Brief stop at marshes near Maromiza (failing to even hear the rail), returned to Tana. Flew to Maroantsetra arriving early afternoon. The very unimpressive terminal building (not even a road leading to it) setting the standard for the town. Taxi into town. Found (non-birding) guide Augustine who arranged boat to take us to Ambanizana following morning. Bought food for visit. Stayed at inappropriately named Hotel Coco Beach (the recommended Hotel Tropical being closed)! 16 species seen. Highlights Striped Tenrec by chalets at Coco Beach. 2 Meller's Ducks were seen flying over by Barry and John.

6 Aug.

Boat left soon after dawn arriving at Ambanizana after 3 hours. Early start was essential as wind picks up during day making boat journey across bay more risky. All day on main trail at Ambanizana seeing very little. Camped in compound. Local woman cooked our food for us. 15 species seen. Highlights a brilliant Mad. Pigmy Kingfisher (one of the very best Kingfishers I've seen) and a superbly disapproving Mad. Scops Owl spotlighted in compound.

7 Aug.

Rained heavily all day, most of day on main trail at Ambanizana, rest in clearing by compound. 36 species seen. Camped in compound. Highlights 3 Helmet and 3 Rufous Vangas in a mixed bird flock.

8 Aug.

Early morning around clearing at Ambanizana, boat back to Maroantsetra where stayed around Coco Beach Hotel as little else to do. Ideally would have liked longer at Ambanizana but flight availability did not allow it. 31 species seen. Highlight a pair of Nelcourvi Weaver's nest building.

9 Aug.

Morning at Maroantsetra, mid day flight to Tana. Stayed in Hotel Rose. 12 species seen.

10 Aug.

Left Tana at 03:00 hrs driving north to Ampijoroa, arriving at 13:00 hrs. Visited marshes 17- 20kms to north returning to Lake for dusk, guided by Charles. Camped at Ampijoroa forest station. 35 species seen. Highlights 5 Mad. Jacanas, the pair of Mad. Fish Eagles and 30 African Pigmy Geese.

11 Aug.

All day at Ampijoroa, morning on grid trails of plateau, mid day at lake shore and afternoon on trail B to north of lake. Guided, morning and late afternoon by Charles. Camped at Ampijoroa forest station. 51 species seen. Highlights 2 groups of White-breasted Mesites, 5 Mad. Crested Ibis, a pair of Mad. Sandgrouse, a pair of White-throated Rails and 9 Sickle-billed Vangas.

12 Aug.

All day at Ampijoroa, mostly on trail B. Guided, morning and late afternoon by Charles. Camped at Ampijoroa forest station. 36 species seen. Highlights 3 White-breasted Mesites, 2 Mad. Crested Ibis and 2 non-adult male Schlegel's Asities.

13 Aug.

Early morning on trail B, guided by Charles. Left Ampijoroa at 09:30 hrs to drive back to Tana, arriving at 18:15 hrs. 30 species seen. Highlights an excellent pair of Schlegel's Asities, 10 African Pigmy Geese.

14 Aug.

Left Tana at 11:00 hrs (start supposedly delayed due to driver buying a replacement tyre). Drove south, eventually arriving at Ranomafana at 19:45 hrs. Stayed in new, but very basic, hotel. 13 species seen. Highlight Marsh Owl and Barn Owl from car.

15 Aug.

Rained all day. Vohiparara marsh in morning, brief excursion into forest, rest of day at hotel. 23 species seen. Highlight Grey Emutail.

16 Aug.

Rained all day. Most of day in forest at Ranomafana guided by Fidi. 20 species seen. Highlights male Crossley's Babbler and a pair of Yellow-browed Oxylabes.

17 Aug.

Very little rain! All day in forest at Ranomafana guided by Fidi. 22 species seen. Highlights a brilliant Pitta-like Ground Roller, a pair of Mad. Wood Rails and Mad. Pigmy Kingfisher.

18 Aug.

Very little rain! All day in forest at Ranomafana guided by Fidi. 34 species seen. Highlights brilliant Mad. Flufftail and a Rufous-headed Ground Roller and a pair of Brown Mesites.

19 Aug.

Morning at Vohiparara, guided by Fidi and afternoon in forest at Ranomafana, early evening at picknick site for mouse lemurs. 43 species seen. Highlights three Pitta-like Ground Rollers, a pair of Crossley's Babblers and 2 Eastern Mouse Lemurs.

20 Aug.

Left Ranomafana at 07:00 hrs, spent 3 hours around small reservoir northwest of Vohiparara and then drove south to Ranohira, arriving at 18:45 hrs. Night at hotel in Ranohira. 29 species seen. Highlights a pair of Reunion Harriers and 4 Mad. Partridges.

21 Aug.

Early morning at 'oasis' then drove south to Zombitse for late morning. Drove south to Sakaraha for provisions returning to Zombitse for late afternoon. Left after dark and drove to Toliara where stayed in unmemorable hotel. (The prospect of staying in Sakaraha and returning to Zombitse the following morning did not appeal). 37 species seen. Highlights male Benson's Rock Thrush, 3 brilliant Cuckoo Rollers, 5+ Appert's Greenbul's and 2 White-browed and 1 Mad. Scops Owls.

22 Aug.

Drove to Mora Mora, two at a time (road too sandy to make it fully loaded), all arriving by late morning. Guides Mosa and Masindraka were absent. Wandered around immediate vicinity of Mora Mora, going into spiny forest at mid afternoon with next best guide. Stayed at Mora Mora hotel. 26 species seen. Highlights a pair of Banded Kestrels and two male Sub-desert Mesites 'treed' by our guide.

23 Aug.

Morning in spiny forest with guide, mid day visit to salt pans to south of Mora Mora, returned into spiny forest in afternoon with guide and Mosa who had fortunately returned. Stayed at Mora Mora hotel. 37 species seen. Highlights Long-tailed Ground Roller and a pair of Madagascar Plovers.

24 Aug.

Early morning in spiny forest with Mosa and Masindraka, then returned to Toliara two at a time where stocked up with some provisions (including numerous tins of jam bought thinking they were fruit). Not able to change return flight to Tana. Drove to La Mangrove hotel. Afternoon walking the dusty road south of La Mangrove. 30 species seem. Highlights a pair of Long-tailed Ground Rollers and a pair of Sub-desert Mesites.

25 Aug.

Wind too strong to visit Nosy Ve, all morning walking towards St. Augustine and back. Afternoon around La Mangrove. 25 species seen. Highlights 2 Verreaux's Couas and 3 Humblot's Herons.

26 Aug.

Wind too strong to visit Nosy Ve. Dismissed driver as not worth driving back to Tana early (as would take 2 days). All day around La Mangrove (on mud flats, walking the road and generally loafing around). 24 species seen. Highlights nice views of Grey-headed Lovebirds.

27 Aug.

Boat trip to Nosy Ve were spend a couple of hours, returning via Anakao where an hour was spent in scrub immediately behind the beach. 20 species seen. Highlights 20+ Red-tailed Tropicbirds, six males and a female Littoral Rock Thrushes and a Mad. Scops Owl.

28 Aug.

All day around La Mangrove (on mud flats, walking the road and generally loafing around). A dud day that would have been better spent returning to Tana (to give longer at Perinet) but not possible due to flight non-availability. 27 species seen. Highlights Mad. Magpie Robins.

29 Aug.

Morning around La Mangrove, truck to Toliara airport where walked to airport pools. late afternoon flight back to Tana arriving as getting dark. Met by Aventour and taken into town for big argument about final payment. Night at Hotel Oriental. 29 species seen. Highlights nice views of Mad. Green Pigeon and Marsh Sandpiper.

30 Aug.

Day trip to Perinet, arriving about 08:00 hrs. All day guided by Patrice. Left for Tana late afternoon with brief stop at marshes near Moramanga. 48 species seen. Highlights Red-breasted Coua, brilliant views of Mad. Sparrowhawk and 2 female Velvet Asities.

31 Aug.

Early taxi to Ivato airport. Stop at Mahe on return to Moscow (5+ White-tailed Tropicbirds).

1 Sept

Arrived Moscow (few Hooded Crows), arriving Heathrow with luggage!

The quality of the birds seen in Madagascar was almost unprecedented, we all commented that we'd never been anywhere before where such a high proportion of the species seen were absolute stunners. The following are RJF's top eleven birds of the trip:

1. Pitta-like Ground Roller
2. Rufous-headed Ground Roller
3. Madagascar Flufftail
4. Long-tailed Ground Roller
5. Short-legged Ground Roller
6. Cuckoo Roller
7= Madagascar Pigmy Kingfisher
7= Madagascar Scops Owl (the 'mad' one at Ambanizana)
9= Red-tailed Tropicbird
9= White-breasted Mesite
9= Velvet Asity

Helmet Vanga, Red-breasted Coua, Brown Emutail, two Mesites, two excellent rails, Madagascar Crested Ibis and Schlegel's Asity all failed to make the top 10 though most probably would have on any other trip!

Madagascar Species List

Species numbers refer to those used in Langrand's Birds of Madagascar and all dates relate to August 1995. Unless stated otherwise, all occurrences were recorded by Richard Fairbank.

• 11 Madagascar Little Grebe: One on lake, opposite Fyon Nyala, at Perinet on 3rd, but not subsequent visits. Bird had all black bill with small yellow tip (not as illustrated in Langrand).
• 14 Red-tailed Tropicbird: at least 20 incl. some downy young on Nosy Ve. Brilliant.
• 18 Long-tailed Cormorant: 4 seen at Maroantsetra and 1 on lake at Ampijoroa.
• 19 Darter: 1 seen on lake at Ampijoroa (RJF missed it).
• 24 Night Heron: 8 at Maroantsetra and 3 in Tana.
• 25 Squacco Heron: small numbers seen at Ampijoroa and around Tana. Note: Madagascar Squacco Heron not present at this time of year.
• 27 Cattle Egret: fairly common in paddies etc.
• 28 Striated Heron: recorded in small numbers from most places.
• 29 Black Heron: recorded in small numbers, most seen in NE. Max. 14 at Ambanizana.
• 30 Dimorphic Egret: 10 seen at Ambanizana, 20 in SW, few around Tana. Probably overlooked/ignored on car journeys.
• 31 Great White Egret: widespread.
• 32 Purple Heron: 1 at Perinet, 9 at Ampijoroa, 2 at Vohiparara and 2 at the 'oasis'.
• 33 Grey Heron: 1 at marsh north of Ampijoroa, up to 3 daily on mud flats in SW.
• 35 Humblot's Heron: 1 flew past Mora Mora and up to 3 on tidal mud flats at La Mangrove.
• 37 Hammerkop: 4 seen from car on high plateau.
• 41 Glossy Ibis: 31 flew north over Ampijoroa on 13th.
• 42 Madagascar Crested Ibis: heard distantly at Perinet and Ranomafana. 6 or 7 at Ampijoroa - 2 pairs walking along plateau grid trails and a single on the trail B (to north of lake) on 11th and a pair trail B on 12th.
• 43 African Spoonbill: 1 flew over Tana airport on 29th August.
• 46 Fulvous Whistling Duck: 15 distantly in flight over Maroantsetra on 9th were presumed to be this species.
• 47 White-faced Whistling Duck: 50 on marshes north of Ampijoroa and up to 15 on lake at Ampijoroa.
• 48 Knob-billed Goose: 1 flew over Ampijoroa (not seen by RJF).
• 49 African Pigmy Goose: 10 on lake by main road south of Ampijoroa on 10th and 13th and 20 at marshes north of Ampijoroa on 10th.
• 51 Meller's Duck: 2 flew over Maroantsetra on 5th (not seen by RJF).
• 52 Red-billed Teal: 1 at marshes north of Ampijoroa and 1 at Vohiparara.
• 53 Hottentot Teal: 2 at marshes north of Ampijoroa on 10th.
• 56 Madagascar Cuckoo-Falcon: a very wet individual by the wooden bridge at Ranomafana on 16-17th.
• 57 Bat Hawk: 1 flew over the compound at Ambanizana on 7th.
• 58 Black Kite: fairly common on high plateau. Over 20 attracted to grass fires on 13th.
• 59 Madagascar Fish-Eagle: A pair with a downy young at nest site next to lake at Ampijoroa. One or other of adults was seen flying over area most days.
• [60 Madagascar Serpent Eagle: 1 seen at display tree at Ambanizana shortly after we'd left (J. Blincow & N. Goodgame)].
• 61 Madagascar Harrier-Hawk: 3 seen in high plateau, singles twice over Ampijoroa, 2 at Zombitse and 1- 2 daily in spiny forest at Ifaty.
• 62 Reunion Harrier: a pair seen very well over grassland behind small reservoir northwest of Vohiparara. The best harrier?
• 63 Henst's Goshawk: 2 sightings at Ranomafana, where heard daily and 1 seen distantly over woods behind small reservoir north of Vohiparara.
• [64 Madagascar Sparrowhawk: One by road at entrance to Ranomafana, two seen very well at Perinet on 30th. Subsequent information suggests there were misidentifications (of the following species).]
• 65 Frances's Sparrowhawk: One at Perinet and 1 at Ranomafana (more might have been expected).
• 66 Madagascar Buzzard: widespread but only 15 seen.
• 67 Madagascar Kestrel: widespread and common (86 seen), both dark and light birds generally together but few mixed pairs.
• 68 Banded Kestrel: a pair seen very well, in flight and perched on tops of baobabs at entrance to spiny forest at Ifaty.
• 72 Madagascar Partridge: Two pairs seen at small reservoir northwest of Vohiparara, one pair walking away, the other in flight only.
• 76 White-breasted Mesite: 8 seen at Ampijoroa, 3 together at end of plateau grid trails and two on the trail B (to north of lake) on 11th and three on trail B on 12th. The first group got highly agitated in response to tape playback.
• 77 Brown Mesite: 2 seen well at Ranomafana on 18th.
• 78 Sub-desert Mesite: 2 males in spiny forest at Ifaty on 22nd and a male and female on 24th. On both occasions found and 'treed' by guide. They then gave excellent views placing far too much faith in their cryptic camouflage.
• 79 Madagascar Buttonquail: 8 seen on forest floor at Ampijoroa, 1 at small reservoir north of Vohiparara, 1 at Zombitse, 2 at Ifaty and 1-2 most days near La Mangrove.
• 80 Madagascar Rail: heard at marshes near Moramanga, similar calls believed to be this species heard at small reservoir north of Vohiparara.
• 81 White-throated Rail: A pair by the lake at Ampijoroa at dusk on 11th.
• 82 Madagascar Wood Rail: A pair in forest at Ranomafana on 17th, heard there on 16th and at Perinet on 30th.
• 85 Madagascar Flufftail: Brilliant views by the stream at Ranomafana on 18th, heard most days at Ranomafana and Perinet, where one seen briefly (not by RJF). Sticking ones head in the bushes seems the best way of seeing this species.
• 87 Moorhen: 1 on reservoir at Perinet on two dates, 1 south of Ampijoroa.
• 91 Madagascar Jacana: 5 at marshes north of Ampijoroa on 10th.
• 93 Black-winged Stilt: 8 at marshes north of Ampijoroa on 10th, 4 beside lake at Ampijoroa, 10 on Toliara airport pool on 29th.
• 98 Grey Plover: seen most days on mud flats at La Mangrove, max. 22 on 28th.
• 100 Madagascar Plover: 2 on salt pans south of Mora Mora on 23rd.
• 101 Kittlitz's Plover: 11 beside lake at Ampijoroa, 6 on salt pans south of Mora Mora, 7 at Toliara airport pool.
• 102 Three-banded Plover: 5 beside lake at Ampijoroa, 2 at Ifaty and 1 at Tolaria airport pool.
• 104 White-fronted Sand Plover: 1 at river mouth near Maroantsetra on 6th, 6 on beach and at salt pans south of Mora Mora, 1 on Nosy Ve and 2 north of Anakao.
• 107 Whimbrel: seen daily on coast at Mora Mora and La Mangrove, max. 75 on mud flats 26th and 28th.
• 109 Marsh Sandpiper: 1 on Toliara airport pool.
• 110 Greenshank: heard at marshes north of Ampijoroa, 1 beside lake at Ampijoroa, seen most days on coast at Mora Mora and La Mangrove, max. 40 on mud flats on 25th.
• 114 Common Sandpiper: seen at most suitable sites but in small numbers (11 in total).
• 116 Madagascar Snipe: 1 flushed twice from paddyfields at Vohiparara on 15th.
• 119 Curlew Sandpiper: 2 on salt pans south of Mora Mora on 23rd, 3 on Toliara airport pool.
• 123 Kelp Gull: an immature flew S along the coast at La Mangrove on 26th.
• 125 Whiskered Tern: 10 over marshes north of Ampijoroa on 10th.
• 129 Caspian Tern: 1 on mud flats off La Mangrove on 25-26th.
• 135 Crested Tern: 1 from boat returning from Ambanizana on 8th, seen daily off La Mangrove, max. 20 at Nosy Ve on 27th.
• 136 Lesser Crested Tern: 6 at Nosy Ve on 27th.
• 140 Madagascar Sandgrouse: a pair on rough ground at southern end of lake at Ampijoroa on 11th.
• 141 Feral Rock Dove: seen in most urban areas, including the village at Ambanizana.
• 142 Madagascar Turtle Dove: widespread but not particularly common (24 seen), most frequent at Ranomafana where seen daily, max. 4 on 12th.
• 143 Namaqua Dove: common in dryer western side of island and 1 or 2 at Maroantsetra. Most seen from car, max. 66 on 10th and 50 on 13th.
• 144 Madagascar Green Pigeon: 9 at Ambanizana, 55 at Ampijoroa incl. 50 at fruiting tree on 12th, seen daily Mora Mora and La Mangrove, max. 10 on 23rd. An excellent green pigeon.
• 145 Madagascar Blue Pigeon: 7 at Perinet, small numbers most days at Ranomafana with 30 on 19th.
• 146 Greater Vasa Parrot: 2 at Perinet, 2 at Ambanizana and 1 over the 'oasis'.
• 147 Lesser Vasa Parrot: seen at most sites, apart from La Mangrove. Max. 15 at Ambanizana on 7th, 10 at Ranomafana on 15th and 10 at Ifaty on 22nd.
• 148 Grey-headed Lovebird: 40 seen on drive to/from Ampijoroa, common in south west, seen daily with max. 23 at Mora Mora on 23rd. Charming birds.
• [150. Madagascar Lesser Cuckoo: seen at Ampijoroa (J. Blincow et al.)].
• 152 Giant Coua: 2 in forest at Zombitse (1 walked across trail and 1 flushed at dusk).
• 153 Coquerel's Coua: 2 on plateau grid trails at Ampijoroa on 11th and 2 on trail B, by lake, on 13th. A Coua seen very briefly at Zombitse was this species or Giant.
• 154 Red-breasted Coua: 1 at Perinet on 30th with another calling nearby.
• 155 Red-fronted Coua: 1 at Perinet on 3rd.
• 156 Running Coua: 2 in spiny forest at Ifaty, 1 'running' on 22nd and 1 flying up to roost on 23rd.
• 157 Red-capped Coua: 3 on plateau grid trails at Ampijoroa on 11th, singles in spiny forest at Ifaty on 22- 23rd and 2 south of La Mangrove on 28th.
• 158 Crested Coua: 1 at Ambanizana, 14 at Ampijoroa, incl. 12 on 11th, 1 at Zombitse, 4 at Ifaty and 1 at La Mangrove.
• 159 Verreaux's Coua: 2 south of La Mangrove on 25th, 5 on 28th and heard there on 29th.
• 160 Blue Coua: 5 at Perinet, 3 at Ambanizana and 7 at Ranomafana.
• 161 Madagascar Coucal: 3 at Perinet, 4 at Ambanizana, 2 at Maroantsetra, 8 at Ampijoroa, 1 at Vohiparara, 1 at 'oasis' and 4 at Mora Mora.
• 162. Madagascar Red Owl: heard along main forest trail at Ambanizana a couple of nights after we left (J. Blincow & N. Goodgame)].
• 163 Barn Owl: 1 north of Vohiparara after dark on 14th.
• 164 Malagasy Scops Owl: heard at Perinet, a grumpy rufous individual spotlighted in compound at Ambanizana on 6th (and heard on 7th), an 'intermediate' spotlighted at Ampijoroa on 11th (and another heard on 12th), a grey individual spotlighted in Zombitse on 21st and an 'intermediate' individual spotlighted at La Mangrove on 27th (and heard on 26th). Calls of birds at Perinet and Ambanizana were noticeably different from those in west of country.
• 165 White-browed Owl: two spotlighted in Zombitse on 21st.
• [166 Madagascar Long-eared Owl: one seen at Perinet (J. Blincow et al.)].
• 167 African Marsh Owl: 1 south of Ambositra at dusk on 14th.
• 168 Madagascar Nightjar: 27 at Ampijoroa, incl. 15 at dusk on 11th, 4 roosting in spiny forest at Ifaty, 1 at La Mangrove where heard most evenings.
• 171 Malagasy Spinetail: 6 at Perinet, 10 at Ambanizana and 2 at Ifaty.
• 172 African Palm Swift: 2 over marshes near Moramanga, seen daily at Ampijoroa, incl. 24 on 10th, 1 at Vohiparara, 105 between 'oasis' and Zombitse.
• 173 Alpine Swift: 2 at Vohiparara, 3 near Ihosy on 20th.
• 174 African Black Swift: 6 at Ranomafana, 20 near Ihosy and 2 near 'oasis'.
• 175 Malagasy Malachite Kingfisher: 1 or 2 daily at Perinet, 4 at Ambanizana, 1 at Maroantsetra, 7 at marshes north of Ampijoroa, 2 by lake at Ampijoroa and 1 at Vohiparara.
• 176 Madagascar Pigmy Kingfisher: 2 on main trail at Ambanizana (only 1 seen by RJF) and 1 in forest at Ranomafana. One of the best kingfishers.
• 177 Madagascar Bee-eater: common in north, scarce in southwest. Max. 12 at Maroantsetra and 20 between Ampijoroa and Tana. Also 2 at Ranomafana, 2 at Zombitse and 2 at Toliara airport pool.
• 179 Short-legged Ground-Roller: one found by Patrice at Perinet on 3rd was watched for 45 minutes. It had not moved an hour later! Brilliant.
• [180 Scaly Ground-Roller: one seen at Ambanizana a couple of days after we left (J. Blincow & N. Goodgame)].
• 181 Pitta-like Ground Roller: four at Ranomafana. All gave brilliant views, particularly the first which was watched for half an hour - the bird of the trip.
• 182 Rufous-headed Ground-Roller: one seen at Maromiza (and another heard) and one at Ranomafana. Both were seen very well, the former for about 20 minutes.
• 183 Long-tailed Ground Roller: one at Ifaty on 23rd and a pair in the same general area there on 24th.
• 184 Cuckoo-Roller: 2 at Perinet, a pair at Ambanizana, 3 at Ampijoroa (RJF saw only 1), 2 at Ranomafana, a pair and a male at Vohiparara, a pair at the 'oasis' and a male at Zombitse.
• 185 Hoopoe: 2 at Ampijoroa, 2 at Zombitse and 4 at Mora Mora.
• 186 Velvet Asity: a stunning male at Maromiza, 2 non-breeding males at Ranomafana and 2 females at Perinet.
• 187 Schlegel's Asity: 4 on trail B beside lake at Ampijoroa: an immature male, a female and a brilliant pair.
• 188 Sunbird-Asity: 2 males and a female at Perinet, a non-breeding male at Ranomafana and a female and non-breeding male at Vohiparara. One of the few species that disappointed.
• [189 Yellow-bellied Sunbird Asity: one seen by Ranomafana lookout a couple of days after we left (J. Blincow et al.)]
• 190 Madagascar Bush Lark: common at roadside on high plateau with max. of 30 on 10th and 13th, 20 at Zombitse. 1 to 3 most days in southwest with 12 on 29th.
• 191 Brown-throated Sand Martin: 4-6 at marsh near Moramanga, 6 at Vohiparara, 20 at Ranomafana, 10 near Ihosy.
• 193 Mascarene Martin: 2 at Ivato airport, Tana (on 4 dates), 1-2 at La Mangrove and 5 at Toliara airport pools.
• 195 Madagascar Wagtail: common at Perinet (max. 8 on 4th) and Ranomafana (max. 10 on 19th), 3 at Ambanizana, 1 on high plateau north of Tana, 6 near reservoir northwest of Vohiparara. An excellent wagtail.
• 196 Ashy Cuckoo-Shrike: 8 at Perinet, 3 at Ambanizana, 5 at Ampijoroa, 8 at Ranomafana and 3 at Zombitse. Rather nice for a Cuckoo Shrike.
• 197 Long-billed Greenbul: commonest greenbul; 11 at Perinet, 4 at Ambanizana, 16 at Ampijoroa, 10 at Ranomafana and 3 at Zombitse.
• 198 Spectacled Greenbul: 9 at Perinet and 6 at Ranomafana.
• 199 Appert's Greenbul: 5 on forest floor at Zombitse. Rather smart.
• 200 Dusky Greenbul: one probable seen by RJF at Perinet on 3rd, one seen by Patrice at Perinet (in same general area) on 30th. J. Blincow et al. also saw one in same general area at Perinet.
• 201 Grey-crowned Greenbul: 4 at Ranomafana and 1 at Perinet.
• 202 Madagascar (Black) Bulbul: most widespread species encountered and seen virtually every day. Max. 15 at Ambanizana on 7th and 15 at La Mangrove on 28th.
• 203 Madagascar Magpie Robin: 36 seen. Present at most sites in small numbers, max. 4 at Ampijoroa on 11th and 6 at Ifaty on 23rd.
• 204 Stonechat: fairly common on high plateau, max. 15 on 20th.
• 205 Forest Rock Thrush: A male at Maromiza and a male near Vohiparara. Both were in song.
• 206 Littoral Rock Thrush: six males and a female in scrub immediately inland of Anakao.
• 207 Benson's Rock Thrush: A male seen in a narrow gorge at the 'oasis'. One or two others were heard in the distance here.
• 208 Madagascar Swamp Warbler: at least 3 at marshes near Moramanga, 1 at Toliara airport pool. 1 at reservoir northwest of Vohiparara (JFC only).
• 209 Madagascar Brush Warbler: 4 at Perinet, 10 at Ranomafana/Vohiparara, 3 at Ifaty and 12 at La Mangrove.
• 210 Thamnornis Warbler: 2 in spiny forest at Ifaty.
• 211 Madagascar Cisticola: 1 at Moramanga, 1 at marshes north of Ampijoroa, 3 at Vohiparara, 1 at reservoir northwest of Vohiparara, 1 at Zombitse and 12 at La Mangrove.
• 212 Brown Emutail: 1 in forest at Moramiza.
• 213 Grey Emutail: 1 or 2 seen at Vohiparara marsh and others heard.
• 214 Rand's Warbler: 4 at Ranomafana and 3 at Perinet.
• 215 Dark Newtonia: 2 at Perinet and a probable at Ranomafana.
• 216 Common Newtonia: 9 at Perinet, 8 at Ampijoroa, 14 at Ranomafana, 8 at Zombitse and 25 at Ifaty.
• 217 Archbold's Newtonia: 2 at Ifaty.
• - 'New' Warbler: 1 at Vohiparara on 19th.
• 219 Common Jery: 30 at Perinet, 1 at Ambanizana, 10 at Ampijoroa, 12 at Ranomafana, 20 at Zombitse and 4-20 daily at Ifaty and La Mangrove. 3 on Nosy Ve.
• 220 Green Jery: 5 at Ranomafana and 4 at Perinet.
• 221 Stripe-throated Jery: 3 at Ifaty, possibly overlooked elsewhere.
• 223 Ward's Flycatcher: 13 at Perinet, 1 at Ranomafana viewpoint and 1 at Vohiparara viewpoint.
• 224 Madagascar Paradise Flycatcher: 17 at Perinet, 3 at Ambanizana, 18 at Ampijoroa, 5 at Ranomafana and 3 at Zombitse. Both red and white males seen.
• 225 White-throated Oxylabes: 1 at Perinet and 3 at Ranomafana.
• 226 Yellow-browed Oxylabes: a pair on forest floor at Ranomafana.
• 227 Crossley's Babbler: a single and a pair on forest floor at Ranomafana. Excellent.
• 228 Souimanga Sunbird: common with 1-10 seen on most days. Those in SW ('apolis') had almost white underparts.
• 229 Long-billed Green Sunbird: 11 at Perinet, 2 at Ambanizana, 1 at Ampijoroa, 4 at Ranomafana and 1 at Zombitse.
• 230 Madagascar White-eye: 60 at Perinet/Maromiza, 20 at Ambanizana, 4 at Ampijoroa and 18 at Ranomafana.
• 232 Red-tailed Vanga: 12 at Perinet, 1 at Maromiza, 1 at Ambanizana, 9 at Ranomafana, 2 at Zombitse and 3 at Ifaty. The best Vanga?
• 233 Rufous Vanga: one male and two females on main trail at Ambanizana and an adult and immature male at Ampijoroa.
• 234 Hook-billed Vanga: a female at Perinet and a male at Maromiza.
• 235 Lafresnaye's Vanga: single males at Ifaty on 23rd and 24th were perhaps the same.
• 236 Van Dam's Vanga: two pairs on plateau at Ampijoroa.
• 237 Pollen's Vanga: a female at Ranomafana on 16th and a male on 19th.
• 238 Sickle-billed Vanga: flocks of 7, 2 and c20 at Ampijoroa and 2 at Ifaty.
• 239 White-headed Vanga: 1 near compound at Ambanizana, 4 at Ampijoroa, 2 at Ranomafana and 3 at Ifaty.
• 240 Chabert's Vanga: seen at every site, max. 10 at Ambanizana on 6th, 6 at Ranomafana on 18th and 5 at Perinet on 3rd. Those in SW 'schistocereus') have white bases to tail.
• 241 Blue Vanga: 12 at Perinet, 2 at Ampijoroa and 2 at Ranomafana.
• [242 Bernier's Vanga: one seen at Ambanizana a couple of days after we left (M. Piper)]
• 243 Helmet Vanga: 3 on main trail at Ambanizana. In mixed flock with
• 197, 232, 233, 240, 244 & 245.
• 244 Nuthatch Vanga: 6 at Perinet and 2 at Ambanizana.
• 245 Tylas Vanga: 3 at Perinet, 1 at Ambanizana and 8 at Ranomafana.
• 246 Crested Drongo: common, seen most days. 12 at Perinet, 10 at Ambanizana, 26 at Ampijoroa, 12 at Ranomafana, 4 at Zombitse, 20 at Ifaty and 5 at La Mangrove.
• 247 Pied Crow: common on high plateau, e.g. 50 on 20th, only 3 in SW.
• 248 Madagascar Starling: 4 at Vohiparara (but not seen well) and 3 at Perinet.
• 249 Common Myna: 100+ at Maroantsetra, few on high plateau (30 on 14th and 20 on 20th), 2 at Mora Mora and 1 at Toliara airport pool.
• 251 Nelicourvi Weaver: 3 at Perinet, a pair at nest near compound at Ambanizana and 10 at Ranomafana. Possibly the best weaver I've seen.
• 252 Sakalava Weaver: 40 at Ampijoroa and 10-75 daily at Mora Mora and La Mangrove.
• 253 Madagascar Red Fody: 5 at Perinet, 1500 at Ambanizana on 8th (but only 43 on 6-7th), 20 at Maroantsetra, 10 on high plateau and 10 at Vohiparara.
• 254 Forest Fody: single males at forest edge at Maromiza and in forest at Perinet. Also a male at forest edge at Vohiparara was considered to be this species.
• 255 Madagascar Mannikin: 14 at Perinet, 10 at Ambanizana, 3 at Ampijoroa, 3 at Ranomafana and 6 at La Mangrove.

Lemurs etc.

• Indri: one seen and several heard at Perinet.
• Brown Lemur: 6 at Perinet, 5 at Zombitse (Red-fronted variant).
• Wooly Lemur: 3 at Perinet.
• Grey Bamboo Lemur: 3 at Perinet, 1 at Maromiza, 3 at Ranomafana.
• Greater Bamboo Lemur (Broad-faced Gentle Lemur): 3 at Ranomafana.
• Red-bellied Lemur: a pair on several occasions in forest at Ranomafana.
• Diademed Sifaka: 3 at Ranomafana.
• Mongoose Lemur: 2 on trail B at Ampijoroa.
• Eastern Mouse Lemur: 2 at Ranomafana. Brilliant.
• Broad-tailed Dwarf Lemur: 1 grey phase on plateau at Ampijoroa, 2 rufous phase on trail B.
• Ring-tailed Lemur: 3 tame ones at Mora Mora.
• Coquerel's Sifaka: 4-6 daily around campsite at Ampijoroa, incl. mother with baby.
• Striped Tenrec: 1 at Coca Beach Hotel, Maroantsetra.
• Ring-tailed Mongoose: 3 at picknick areas at Ranomafana.
• Striped Civet: 1 at Ranomafana.
• Forest Rat: 2 at Ranomafana.
• Chameleon sp.: several species seen, most bizarre when crossing a road.

Richard Fairbank
19 Crown Road
Shoreham-by-Sea
West Sussex, BN43 6GB
R.J.Fairbank@sussex.ac.uk

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